L'Oréal | Revitalift Laser Tripeptide Serum

This serum feels like it’s doing something—but it’s subtle. There's a mild, healthy glow, less punchy than a good vitamin C but enough to notice. It spreads easily, sinks in fast, and plays well under most products. That said, it can pill, depending on what you layer on top. This is almost always a sign of too many film-formers or polymers not cooperating across formulas. The real issue, though, is the stinging. If your skin is even mildly sensitized—say, from a few nights of acids or retinoids—this can tingle or outright burn. And for a peptide-based serum that’s supposedly focused on repair and strengthening, that’s a serious design flaw. The likely culprit is alcohol denat., which shows up worryingly high in the INCI list. It’s there to improve penetration and texture, but it also compromises barrier function and increases the risk of irritation—especially in formulas meant for stressed or aging skin. Add fragrance, citronellol, and linalool to the mix, and you’ve got a formula that contradicts its own purpose. Which is a shame, because there’s plenty in here that should work. The peptide lineup is solid: acetyl hexapeptide-8 for smoothing expression lines, palmitoyl tripeptide-1 and tetrapeptide-7 (a Matrixyl duo) for supporting collagen and elasticity. You get ascorbyl glucoside (a stable vitamin C derivative), tocopherol (vitamin E), and Bifida ferment lysate, which brands love to claim helps with microbiome balance and resilience. The base is full of dependable humectants like glycerin, betaine, and sodium hyaluronate. In theory, it’s a great supporting serum for barrier repair and daily skin maintenance. In practice, it feels like the formula is at war with itself—trying to soothe and strengthen while sneaking in ingredients that do the opposite. I don’t understand L’Oréal’s need to keep adding alcohol to its formulations. It’s not the first time I’ve seen it, and it really puts a damper on an otherwise great product. You almost had it, L’Oréal.
Isntree | Hyaluronic Acid Natural Sun Cream SPF 50 PA++++

This mineral sunscreen makes a strong first impression: it feels more like a lightweight moisturizer than a chalky SPF, which is already a win in the zinc oxide world. The texture is smooth, non-sticky, and although it takes a bit of effort to spread it dries down to a soft, almost imperceptible finish. No tackiness, no greasiness, no "sunscreen skin." But while it nails the feel, it stumbles where most mineral sunscreens do: the white cast is real. Not the worst I’ve seen, but definitely visible, especially if you’re not on the pale end of the spectrum. The formula is textbook modern mineral SPF. Zinc oxide does the heavy lifting, offering broad-spectrum protection without the irritation risks of chemical filters. There are some nice skin-care extras thrown in for good measure: niacinamide and adenosine for barrier repair and brightening, panthenol, betaine, and sodium hyaluronate for hydration. It’s fragrance-free, essential oil–free, and generally kind to sensitive skin — which, paired with the non-sticky texture, makes it a solid choice for reactive skin types. However, the white cast limits its audience. If your skin tone is deeper than fair-to-light, this may not be the invisible finish you’re looking for. Still, it’s a thoughtfully built mineral sunscreen that prioritizes feel and skin compatibility. If you're pale, picky, and prone to irritation, it's probably worth trying. If you're medium-to-deep skinned and hoping for an invisible mineral SPF — there are other, better options (here, here and here).
Beauty of Joseon | Relief Sun Aqua-Fresh Rice + B5 SPF50+

This sunscreen is built around an impressive lineup of modern UV filters — including Tinosorb S, Uvinul A Plus, Mexoryl SX, and Mexoryl XL — offering broad-spectrum protection that goes far beyond what most Western sunscreens provide. These filters are photostable, efficient, and well-tolerated, making this a standout option for both UVB and UVA protection. The texture is lightweight and fluid, and while it does still feel and look like a sunscreen (it does leave a shiny finish), it stays just shy of greasy and isn’t sticky at all — and most importantly, feels weightless throughout the day. Beyond sun protection, the formula is rounded out with barrier-supporting and hydrating ingredients. You’ll find glycerin, panthenol, sodium hyaluronate, beta-glucan and rice oil for moisture and soothing, ceramide NP and phytosphingosine for barrier repair, and green tea, oat extract, and artichoke for additional anti-inflammatory benefits.The inclusion of rice and oat extracts, coenzyme Q10, and other antioxidants also adds a touch of long-term skin support. This is a well-formulated daily sunscreen that blends high-tech UV protection with hydrating, skin-friendly extras — without relying on alcohol or fragrance. It may not be completely matte, but the finish is elegant, and the formula doesn’t feel like a chore to use. If you’re looking for an effective sunscreen that respects your skin barrier, this is one to consider.
Filorga | NCEF-Essence Supreme Multi-Correction Face Lotion

This product is supposed to be an anti-aging lotion that addresses hydration and radiance. The texture is very interesting — I would describe it as a "fat” water, very fluid but with noticeable substance. It absorbs well and leaves the skin feeling hydrated, but not particularly soothed, or at least not on sensitive or reactive skin. The fragrance in it is quite noticeable and I wonder if that's the reason why. Filorga claims this lotion is powered by NCEF — a branded complex said to encapsulate hyaluronic acid and 50 “pro-youth” ingredients, including vitamins, amino acids, minerals, coenzymes, and antioxidants. It’s a maximalist approach clearly meant to impress on paper. While the base is solid - hydrating agents like glycerin, butylene glycol, and sodium hyaluronate are present alongside emollients like sweet almond oil to support the barrier - further down, the formula reads like an INCI thesaurus — with amino acids, vitamins (B complex, C, E), coenzymes (NAD, Coenzyme A), peptides, and antioxidants like glutathione. These are all good ingredients on their own — but the sheer number of them, combined with their low positioning on the list, suggests they’re included in token amounts, unlikely to deliver real biological effects - and that is reflected on the skincare classifier score. It feels more like label padding than a precision formula. Parfum, on the other hand, appears relatively high up — a red flag for those with sensitive or reactive skin, especially in a leave-on treatment. The inclusion of alcohol, even if not that dominant, is also questionable This essence will likely boost hydration and layer nicely in a routine, but I personally saw no difference in radiance, and its long list of actives feels more like a marketing asset than a functional one. It sells a dream of high-tech rejuvenation, but what you actually get is a reasonable — yet fragrant — hydrating step.
fresh | Sugar Strawberry Exfoliant Face Wash

This exfoliating cleanser is built around sucrose grains, which act as the primary exfoliant. The texture is a thick gel with small, rounded particles that dissolve as you rub them in — clearly designed to minimize the usual downsides of physical exfoliators. There are no sharp edges, no harsh scrub effect, and it does feel mildly moisturizing rather than stripping, though it’s not especially rich or cushiony either. As a cleanser, it’s only moderately effective: it won’t cut through long-wearing SPF or heavy makeup, so it’s best reserved for morning use or lighter cleansing days. For a physical exfoliant, it’s gentle — and it deserves credit for that — but I wouldn’t use it every day. It’s one of those products that impresses more for what it doesn’t do wrong than what it excels at. Still, chemical exfoliants outperform physical ones in almost every way, and this doesn’t offer a compelling reason to reach for it instead. The ingredient list is a mix of humectants (glycerin, butylene glycol), mild surfactants, and a few fruit extracts — strawberry, blackcurrant, grape seed oil — that bring some antioxidant potential, though likely more for story than function in a rinse-off formula. The formula also includes a load of (potentially sensitizing) fragrance components — parfum, limonene, linalool, citral, benzyl alcohol — which seems unnecessary in a scrub where the grains already provide sensory feedback. It’s a better-than-expected physical exfoliator that manages to avoid the usual pitfalls, but as a cleanser it’s underwhelming, and as an exfoliant, it’s simply not the best format available.
Dr. Levy | Pollution Shield 5PF Skincare Finisher

This product's texture is very unusual — very silicone-heavy, but with an elastic feel, like you're actually applying a film over the skin. I kept expecting it to pill — especially over sunscreen or when layering makeup — but it never did, which was a pleasant surprise. That said, it gave makeup too much slip, making powder absolutely necessary. The Pollution Shield Skincare Finisher is framed as a defense system against 5 supposed modern threats: atmospheric gases, particulate matter, household chemicals, infrared radiation, and blue light from screens. While air pollution and particulates have been shown to contribute to skin damage — particularly oxidative stress and pigmentation — the rest of the list quickly veers into fear-based marketing. There is little clinical evidence to justify protective skincare against low-level exposure to infrared radiation or visible blue light from electronic screens. These aren't UV rays, and daily exposure from laptops or phones hasn’t been robustly linked to premature aging or significant skin harm. Grouping them with actual pollutants is misleading, and exaggerates risks that simply aren't supported by dermatological consensus. That said, the formula contains several credible ingredients. A mix of silicones (phenyl trimethicone, dimethicone, crosspolymers) and biosaccharide gum-4 likely forms a lightweight, occlusive film on the skin — creating a physical barrier that could help reduce adherence of particles and irritants. This aligns with the anti-adherence and anti-penetration claims. Lipid-based components like squalane and lupinus albus seed oil may support the skin’s barrier function, while niacinamide, panthenol and lactobacillus ferment lysate add soothing and moisture-retaining benefits. On the antioxidant side, the formula includes vitamin E, vitamin C, ubiquinone (coenzyme Q10), and madecassoside — a well-rounded combination that does support protection against oxidative stress, especially from urban pollution. Overall, the ingredient choices make sense for supporting skin barrier function and helping neutralize pollution-related oxidative stress. But the product’s framing — especially around blue light and infrared — trades more on anxiety than on established science. The texture is not pleasant enough to use as a standalone moisturizer, and layered over sunscreen it feels redundant, like a step in search of a purpose. I’ll probably use it as a primer simply because I don’t know what else to do with it. It’s a peculiar, borderline gimmicky product, but the reason it still gets a decent rating is because the ingredient list is solid — even if the whole idea leans more marketing than merit.
Medik8 | r-Retinoate Intense Youth Activating Cream

This product is marketed as a serum-moisturizer hybrid — and I’ve used it exactly as that: a standalone nighttime moisturizer. Despite the brand's suggestion to "phase in" the product gradually due to the presence of retinal, I used it daily from the start and only experienced some mild sensitivity around the eye area after the fifth day. Beyond that, my skin tolerated it well. This product is obscenely expensive, and yet, I'm already planning to repurchase. My skin has never looked better — more even-toned, noticeably smoother, and visibly brighter, even during a stretch of poor sleep. It’s the kind of result where you catch your reflection and think you're wearing makeup, even when you're not. I’m just waiting for a good sale before restocking. The formula centers around two high-performance retinoids: retinyl retinoate and retinal (retinaldehyde): -Retinyl retinoate is the brand's proprietary vitamin A molecule, designed to deliver results with less irritation than standard retinoids. There’s some data to support this — including a 12-week human trial (Kim et al., 2010). The brand also claims it’s 8x more powerful than retinol, citing in vitro research (Kim et al., 2008). However, that figure comes from lab experiments measuring collagen production in skin cells — not from clinical testing in humans. Still, it’s a highly promising ingredient. -Retinal, meanwhile, is just one conversion step away from retinoic acid, making it faster-acting than retinol. The brand's “11x faster” claim is based on metabolic comparisons, not clinical trials, but its ability to boost cell turnover and improve texture is well-supported in dermatological literature. The formula also includes a copper peptide, wrapped in marketing-heavy language like “drone-targeted delivery.” While that term means nothing scientifically, copper peptides themselves are respected for supporting collagen production and wound healing. The encapsulation may help with stability, but the brand hasn’t published data confirming enhanced delivery. Supporting all of this is a strong base of hydrating and barrier-repairing ingredients. There’s hyaluronic acid for hydration and a ceramide complex (Ceramide NP, AP, EOP, cholesterol, fatty acids, and phytosphingosine) that mimics the skin’s natural lipid barrier. This is crucial, since retinoids are known to disrupt the barrier — and this formula clearly attempts to offset that. You’ll also find vitamin E (tocopheryl acetate) and a stable form of vitamin C (3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid) for antioxidant support. Unfortunately, the formula also contains fragrance and common fragrance allergens like limonene, linalool, and citral — an unnecessary addition in what is otherwise a near-perfect formulation. All in all, this isn’t just a thoughtfully designed product combining cutting-edge retinoids with a well-rounded supportive base — it’s one that delivers visible, impressive results fast. It’s a high-end product, and it performs like one. Medik8 clearly knows what it’s doing.
Kate Somerville | ExfoliKate Intensive Exfoliating Treatment

ExfoliKate calls itself the “Hollywood 2-minute facial,” and the branding sets the expectation for serious performance. The formula combines three different exfoliating mechanisms: lactic acid, an AHA that helps loosen surface cells and smooth texture; salicylic acid, a BHA that works deeper in the pores to reduce congestion; and enzyme exfoliants derived from papaya, pineapple, and pumpkin, which break down proteins in dead skin. That’s a lot of resurfacing action in a single product. The texture is a thick, green paste, and it takes a bit of work to spread evenly across the face. That’s not necessarily a flaw — the brand specifically instructs you to massage it in for 30 seconds before leaving it on, so the resistance may be intentional to promote said massage. Despite the strong exfoliating profile, the formula is surprisingly light on soothing or barrier-supportive ingredients. There’s aloe, honey, and vitamin E, but they’re competing with a long list of potential irritants. Among them, a lot of fragrant essential oils (lavender, cinnamon, bergamot, geranium, patchouli, and orange peel) that are known to trigger irritation in some users. There's also alcohol, limonene, linalool, and eugenol, all of which are commonly flagged for sensitization risk. To their credit, they do warn to leave it on for up to 2 minutes, which doesn’t give the irritants much time to act - but still, pairing them with so many exfoliants? It just feels so unnecessary. While the brand says some tingling and redness is expected, I found it more reactive than I anticipated — especially considering my skin is usually resilient. I never felt it dried or stripped my skin, but there was one occasion where I experienced noticeable redness and sensitivity around my nose. I’ll admit I didn’t time it precisely, but I’m confident it wasn’t on for more than three minutes — likely even less — which made me question how well this formula is buffered. I can't really pinpoint whether the reaction came from the exfoliants or the fragrance, but the fact that the irritants are the potential culprits doesn’t inspire confidence. I noticed smoother skin, but it didn’t deliver the kind of immediate radiance I get from other strong acid serums or masks. The skincare classifier rated this a 5/10, which feels justified: it’s not that the actives aren’t good, it’s that the balance is off. With stronger support ingredients, or at the very least, without so many irritants, this could easily be a much better product. But as it stands, it feels like a case of overcomplication — too many irritants, not enough recovery.
Estée Lauder | Advanced Night Repair Serum Synchronized Multi-Recovery Complex

Despite the name, Advanced Night Repair isn’t strictly a night-time serum. In fact, the instructions say to use it morning and night — which makes the “night” branding more symbolic than functional. That said, the texture is lovely: lightweight, non-sticky, easy to apply, and layers well with other products. It feels hydrating and soothing right away, and the overall experience is pleasant. But immediate visible results? Not really: I didn’t notice any next-day radiance like the brand advertises — certainly nothing like what a good vitamin C serum or exfoliant can deliver overnight. Still, lack of visible transformation doesn’t necessarily mean it isn’t doing anything. The brand leans heavily into a peptide called Tripeptide‑32, which they refer to as the “Night Peptide.” According to Estée Lauder's research, this peptide is supposed to support the skin’s circadian rhythm and optimize repair while you sleep — a process rooted in real biology, but with no publicly available clinical data or third-party verification showing the peptide's effects in real-world use. The evidence is rooted largely in (Estée Lauder's) proprietary research and unpublished findings. There’s hyaluronic acid for hydration, squalane to help maintain the skin barrier, and bisabolol and chamomile extract for their well-documented soothing properties. You’ll also find yeast extract and lactobacillus ferment, both commonly used for potential skin-calming and barrier-supportive effects. Still, while the INCI list is interesting, the effects are subtle. This isn’t a product that transforms your skin overnight, but rather one that may contribute to overall skin health with long-term use. This is a serum you reach for when you want something gentle, hydrating, and compatible with anything else in your routine. If you’re expecting instant radiance or dramatic change, this won’t deliver that — but it’s a good candidate for quiet support. Whether Tripeptide‑32 is actually resynchronizing your skin’s internal clock or not, that needs more data.
Paula's Choice | Essential Glow Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF30

This is one of those rare sunscreens that feels like a proper moisturizer first. It’s light, fluid, and spreads effortlessly — especially impressive for a mineral SPF. The texture absorbs quickly, doesn’t leave a cast, and gives just a subtle, healthy glow without veering into greasy or shiny territory. While it may not be enough on its own for very dry skin, it’s surprisingly hydrating, and works beautifully across skin types. It performed increibly well under makeup: it makes foundation apply more smoothly and last longer throughout the day. There’s also a touch of tint in the formula, which visibly helps even out skin tone. It’s subtle enough that you can take it right up to the beard line without getting that awkward “beige paste” buildup where the product hits the hair. There’s a faint sunscreen scent, but nothing strong or lingering. Where this formula really sets itself apart is the ingredient list. It’s packed with hydrators, emollients, antioxidants, and barrier-repair ingredients — including niacinamide, two forms of vitamin C, two forms of vitamin E, resveratrol, linoleic acid, phospholipids, bisabolol, argan oil, licorice extract, and peptides. There are no added fragrances or essential oils, and no problematic irritants flagged by the classifier. The dual use of zinc oxide and titanium dioxide gives reliable mineral-based broad-spectrum protection, while the surrounding formula does what most mineral sunscreens don’t: it actually feels nice on the skin. The classifier gives it a perfect score, and I feel validated, because it's my (and my husband's) favorite sunscreen of all time — this is a true hybrid between effective sun protection and serious skincare.