Sort by

Paula's Choice | Barrier Repair Advanced Moisturizer

Barrier Repair Advanced Moisturizer

SkinClass: 9/10

Editor's Rating: Great

Paula’s Choice is usually a safe bet — and once again, it doesn’t disappoint. The Barrier Repair Advanced Moisturizer is built like a textbook barrier cream — full spectrum ceramides and cholesterol, two of the skin’s own lipids that help seal in moisture and restore a compromised barrier. This isn’t just for show: the blend mimics your skin’s natural structure, making the formula more effective at actually repairing what’s broken. There are also natural moisturizing factors like urea and sodium PCA, and emollients like squalane and shea butter to lock everything in. And like marketed, palmitoyl tripeptide‑5 for collagen support, but also adenosine for calming and anti-wrinkle benefits, and a dose of vitamin E (tocopherol), which acts as an antioxidant and helps stabilize the formula. The texture is just right: not too thick, not too light — the kind of cream that layers well, doesn’t pill, and plays nicely with actives underneath. On calm skin, it feels soothing and restorative. However, if my skin is very reactive, it stings a bit. Nothing dramatic, but enough to make me use something else, something more soothing than this. Still, if you’re looking for a good daily night cream — one that delivers moisture, support, and long-term resilience, without the usual filler — this is a standout.

L'Oréal | Revitalift Laser Pressed Cream Retinol + Niacinamide

Revitalift Laser Pressed Cream Retinol + Niacinamide

SkinClass: 8/10

Editor's Rating: Good

Count me surprised to find a proper anti-aging night cream within L'Oréal's (somewhat affordable) line — one that doesn’t tiptoe around retinol, but rather fully embraces it. The texture is a cool, greenish, gel-like cream that spreads easily and absorbs without greasiness. It comes in an airless pump, which is not only more hygienic, but also helps protect the retinol from breaking down — something that’s often overlooked in budget formulations. And this one isn’t weak. With both retinol and retinyl palmitate, it clearly means business. I started noticing brighter, smoother texture after two weeks - but things only went well if I used only one pump for the whole face. I’m not new to retinoids, and yet two pumps of this gave me visible peeling, the kind retinol is famous for. One pump daily is my limit, which tells me the concentration is respectable — maybe not prescription strength, but not watered down either. That’s a good omen if you’ve already built some tolerance and want to see visible results. Beyond the retinoids, there is niacinamide to help with uneven tone, barrier support, and overall skin resilience — the kind of ingredient that makes a retinol formula more livable long-term; acetyl dipeptide‑1 cetyl ester, a calming peptide to dial down reactivity, and panthenol plus sodium hyaluronate to keep hydration in check. My only gripe? The fragrance. It’s not unbearable, but it’s unnecessary — especially in a retinol product, where the skin is already at its most reactive. It’s the one thing that makes me hesitate on full praise (this could have been "great" instead of "good"). Still, this is a solid, well-formulated night cream with real retinoid performance, smart packaging, and visible results — just keep your dosage in check, and maybe don’t layer it on nights your skin is already annoyed.

Caudalie | Premier Cru The Eye Cream

Premier Cru The Eye Cream

SkinClass: 7.2/10

Editor's Rating: Good

Before diving into the review, you should know I'm very skeptical of eye creams (and why you should be skeptical too). You’ll notice your undereyes look instantly more radiant from the very first application. That’s not skincare at work. That’s mica, titanium dioxide, and iron oxides — the usual colorants in tinted creams and highlighters. There’s no mention of this being makeup-adjacent, but the effect is undeniable: your dark circles will look better almost immediately. Just don’t confuse that for long-term progress. The texture is silky and emollient, rich without being greasy. Ingredients like avocado oil, caprylic triglyceride, olive esters, and glycerin make it feel cushiony — the kind of eye cream that makes concealer glide on better. Hydration? Sure. Real structural change? Let’s not get carried away. Caudalie’s usual antioxidant story is here too, with grapevine and grapeseed extracts, a bit of adenosine for fine lines, and a scatter of trendy botanicals like magnolia bark and Terminalia arjuna. Interesting on paper, but not exactly heavy hitters in the wrinkle-fighting department — at least not at cosmetic concentrations. The applicator is a smooth, convex metal tip designed to glide under the eyes and deliver a cooling sensation. That chill can cause brief vasoconstriction, helping to reduce puffiness in the short term. It's a pleasant touch that makes the application feel a bit more spa-like. The brand also highlights a patented technology developed in partnership with Harvard Medical School. According to Caudalie, this complex is designed to boost collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid production. However, these claims are based on lab results on cells rather than clinical trials on human skin. While the collaboration adds scientific cachet, the real-world anti-aging impact of this ingredient blend remains unproven. What you’re getting is a reasonably hydrating eye cream that doubles as a sheer corrector. This will earn a spot in your routine if you want instant gratification and are fine with that glow coming from pigment, not peptides (which, to be clear, aren't in here).

Sand & Sky | Australian Emu Apple Super Bounce Mask

Australian Emu Apple Super Bounce Mask

SkinClass: 6.3/10

Editor's Rating: Average

This mask leans heavily on presentation — vibrant color, fun fruit names, and trendy native botanicals — but the actual experience is far more low-key. At its core, this is a kaolin-based clay mask, but a very gentle one. If you apply a thin layer, the clay effect is barely there. It doesn’t tighten, tingle, or dry out the skin the way traditional clay masks often do. However, with a thicker application, you can feel a mild tightening as it dries — just enough to remind you there’s kaolin in the mix. Post-use, the skin does feel a little smoother to the touch, but it's more of a soft reset than a full exfoliating session. What stands out more than the clay is the hydrating base. Glycerin, propanediol, and rice starch help cushion the formula and give it a creamier feel. There are also multiple different forms of hyaluronic acid, plus jojoba seed oil, which all contribute to the moisturizing effect. Your skin ends up feeling soft and nicely hydrated. Then there’s the EMU apple complex and a handful of antioxidant-rich Australian fruit extracts, but realistically, they’re here in support roles (unlikely to deliver major effects in a wash-off mask). Despite the number of essential oils and fragrant plant extracts — orange, grapefruit, rosemary, etc — the formula doesn't come off as aggressively perfumed, and more importantly, it didn’t irritate my skin. That alone earns points for balance. If you're expecting a transformative, brightening powerhouse, this isn’t it. The performance is modest, but this is not a bad mask overall.

Dr Dennis Gross | Alpha Beta Extra Strength Daily Peel

Alpha Beta Extra Strength Daily Peel

SkinClass: 8.4/10

Editor's Rating: Great

This peel doesn’t mess around. It promises maximum performance in minimum time, and it’s kind of true — if your skin can handle it. Step 1 is a cocktail of seven acids (AHAs and BHAs), including glycolic, lactic, salicylic, and mandelic. It's fast-acting, aggressive, and immediately tingly — borderline stingy. My skin feels raw after using it. This is not for beginners or the barrier-compromised; it’s a treatment for skin that’s desensitized and used to heavy-duty actives. I wouldn't use it daily — every other day for a week is my personal sweet spot — but when I do, it works. Especially on closed comedones, this thing is ruthless in the best way - and my skin looks visibly brighter and smoother with just one use. A big downside for me is the presence of a lot of alcohol in the first pad. My guess is it’s included as a penetration enhancer, since alcohol can temporarily disrupt the skin barrier and supposedly enhance absorption of actives like acids. That said, I don't think there’s any upside to using that much alcohol here. It adds dryness and barrier stress, and it’s what drags the algorithm’s score for Step 1 (alone) down to 6.8: great performance, but unnecessarily harsh delivery. Step 2 is the antidote. It calms everything down almost instantly with a blend of resveratrol, retinol, vitamin C derivatives, tocopherol, and fermented and botanical extracts. This pad feels soothing and reparative — and it better be, after what step 1 just did. It’s the reason I keep coming back to this peel instead of writing it off as too harsh. The score of pad 2 (alone) is 9.2. This is not for beginners. If you’re new to acids or still babying your skin barrier, this will eat your face. But if you're a seasoned skincare user with a high tolerance for actives and a face full of stubborn texture or closed comedones, this hits hard — and gets results. Handle with care. And follow with ceramides.

Beauty of Joseon | Glow Serum Propolis + Niacinamide

Glow Serum Propolis + Niacinamide

SkinClass: 8.1/10

Editor's Rating: Good

This serum markets itself as a "Glow Serum" with the added goal of controlling sebum and maintaining skin moisture — and the ingredients support that pitch, at least on paper. At the top, there’s a generous 60% propolis extract, which brings antioxidant and soothing benefits, especially good for angry, breakout-prone skin. It’s supported by betaine salicylate, a gentler BHA that is supposed to offer pore-clearing and smoothing over time — emphasis on time. If you're expecting instant clarity or radiance, you’ll probably be underwhelmed. I didn’t notice a dramatic “glow,” but to be fair, BHA doesn't seem to do much for me, so that might be a skin-specific thing. There’s also niacinamide at a reasonable, non-aggressive dose (2%), which helps with oil regulation and long-term skin tone improvement, plus centella, tea tree, turmeric, and other botanicals that offer a bit of calming and antimicrobial support. Texture-wise, it's a jelly-like serum that spreads well and isn't tacky once it settles. It layers easily, plays nice with other products, and doesn’t sting even on slightly irritated skin. While it’s not one of those serums that gives you instant gratification, it’s a good option if you want to include a niacinamide serum in your routine — especially if your skin leans oily and sensitive. You might not (who am I kidding, you won't) get a glow that stops traffic, but if your goal is balanced, less-reactive skin, this one will earn its place over time.

Naturium | Niacinamide Cleansing Gelée 3%

Niacinamide Cleansing Gelée 3%

SkinClass: 10/10

Editor's Rating: Great

This is the kind of cleanser that feels like it was made for sensitive skin — low-foaming, ultra gentle, hydrating — even if it never actually says so on the label. With 3% niacinamide and a solid mix of humectants like glycerin and sodium hyaluronate, this gelée doesn’t just cleanse — it leaves your skin feeling moisturized while cleansing. And it doesn’t leave a film, nor does it feel like an oil - not even a cleansing cream, just a hydrating gelée. Despite containing sodium ascorbyl phosphate (a derivative of vitamin C) and camu camu extract — both common players in “brightening” formulas — this one doesn’t make any bold radiance claims. Which is honestly refreshing. Neither ingredient is going to sit on the skin long enough to produce visible brightening effects — but that doesn’t usually stop brands from making far-fetched claims. What’s most surprising, though, is how effective it is. For something that feels so gentle, it gets through makeup surprisingly well. You’ll still want micellar water if you intend on removing a full beat, but on most days, this comes very close to a cleansing balm — and that’s saying something. In short, it's hydrating, non-stripping, and quietly competent.

SKIN1004 | Madagascar Centella Probio-Cica Intensive Ampoule

 Madagascar Centella Probio-Cica Intensive Ampoule

SkinClass: 9/10

Editor's Rating: Great

Marketed as a “Probio-Cica Ampoule”, this serum leans heavily into barrier repair and soothing care, and the formula backs that up. You’ve got Centella Asiatica extract and its key actives — madecassic acid, asiaticoside, asiatic acid — for calming inflammation, plus a solid blend of niacinamide, ceramide NP, phytosphingosine, macadamia oil, and panthenol to deeply moisturize and support the skin barrier. And then there’s the “Probio” part — referring to Lactobacillus ferment, known to help soothe skin, strengthen the barrier, and support the skin microbiome. It appears lower down the list, so it's likely present in moderate amounts — not the star of the formula, but a supporting player that fits the barrier-care theme. The texture is a standout: milky, midweight, and soothing on contact — not too watery but not sticky either. If you have dry or sensitized skin, this is exactly the kind of serum that feels like a sigh of relief - which I'm starting to find is a common theme among K-beauty serums. It glides on, sinks in, and with continued use, leaves skin looking plump and quenched. The results don't look dramatic, but they feel dramatic: it’s not here to resurface or give you a glow overnight, it’s here to hydrate, protect, and reinforce — and it does that beautifully. If you have barrier-compromised or very dry skin, this is a top-tier option. In short, a smartly formulated ampoule that’s more than just marketing fluff. This one earns its “cica” badge fair and square.

Byoma | Ultralight Face Fluid SPF30

Ultralight Face Fluid SPF30

SkinClass: 9.3/10

Editor's Rating: Good

This sunscreen makes a great first impression. The formula is loaded with barrier-repair ingredients and hydrating agents, and a few standout actives like astaxanthin — the bright orange antioxidant they proudly pitch as being 6,000x more powerful than vitamin C. The consistency is also promising: a super-fluid cream that spreads like water — but once applied, the finish is where things unravel. Despite the airy application, it leaves a noticeable film and a persistent shine that never fully settles - in fact, it gets worse as the day progresses. The feel is distinctly old-school — down to the classic SPF smell — and on my skin, it behaves like one too, congesting my pores, just like traditional sunscreens always have. And that’s frustrating, because there’s so much to like on paper. You’ve got a strong, broad spectrum UV filter combo (octocrylene, homosalate, avobenzone, etc.) paired with ceramide NP, phytosphingosine, cholesterol, sodium hyaluronate, bisabolol, tocopherol, beta-glucan — all excellent for moisture retention, barrier support, and anti-inflammatory action. And of course, astaxanthin, one of the most promising antioxidant additions to modern skincare. Byoma is clearly aiming for more than just sun protection here — this is a skin-caring SPF designed to repair and defend, not just block UV rays. And my algorithm reflects that: it scores almost perfectly based on ingredients alone. But for me, it’s just too greasy and unfortunately feels like a throwback — despite the modern formulation. I wanted to give it a "great" but can't give it more than a "good". Such a shame.

Farmacy | Honey Halo Ultra-Hydrating Ceramide Moisturiser

Honey Halo Ultra-Hydrating Ceramide Moisturiser

SkinClass: 8/10

Editor's Rating: Good

The name of this product sets some expectations: honey, hydration, and barrier repair all in one comforting-sounding jar. And while it doesn’t explicitly market itself as a post-actives cream (i.e. something to use after strong ingredients like retinoids or exfoliating acids), that’s exactly how I use it — and it works. It’s definitely rich, but not balmy or greasy. It spreads smoothly, sinks in without fuss, and leaves my skin feeling covered but not coated, if you get what I mean. On weeks where I’ve pushed things a bit too far with actives, this goes on like a truce offering. The formula is doing a lot of heavy lifting to earn that feeling. You get a blend of ceramide NP, shea butter, glycerin, panthenol, betaine, and bisabolol, all focused on restoring moisture and supporting the barrier. There’s also a trio of bee-themed ingredients — honey, propolis, and royal jelly extract — which, while more about the vibe than hardcore performance, do bring mild soothing and antimicrobial benefits. The result is a formula that doesn’t just sit on the skin — it actually helps it recover. Now, the one downside: the packaging. This cream comes in a clear glass jar. It's heavy and thick and looks premium, sure — and although the little spatula (that attaches magnetically to the lid, by the way, so you never lose it) helps prevent microbial contamination, there is still a risk of oxidation for some ingredients. Specifically, sea buckthorn oil, which might degrade when exposed to light and air. It's not the worst formula to be offered in jar packaging, but a more protective container would’ve made more sense.