
When you name your skincare brand *Reale Actives*, you are setting yourself a pretty high bar. 
Alix Earle's **Reale Actives** is the latest influencer skincare line to land on my radar. So I took a look at all four products, ran their ingredient lists through the [**SkinClassifier**](https://www.skinclasshub.com/skinclassifier), and went digging into what is actually behind the marketing claims. The results were *not* what I expected.

##### How to explore the Function Distribution charts

If you want an interactive version of the function distribution pie-charts below, copy and paste an ingredient list into the [**SkinClassifier**](https://www.skinclasshub.com/skinclassifier) to generate these pie-charts. You can then explore which ingredients make up each section, what they do, and, for selected ingredients, access a full deep dive — also available through our [**Ingredient Dictionary**](https://www.skinclasshub.com/theknowledgehub/ingredient-dictionary).

---

## Get Bare: Makeup Melting Cleansing Balm

Retails for $29 for 45 ml

### Classifier Score: **9.1**

![Get Bare Cleansing Balm from Alix Earle's Reale Actives with ingredient function distribution chart](https://images.skinclasshub.com/articles/alix_earle_line_analysis/alix_earle_getbare__cleansing_balm_ingredient_analysis.png)

<details>
<summary>View full ingredient list</summary>

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate, Synthetic Wax, Squalane, Polyglyceryl-6 Dicaprate, Camellia Sinensis Extract, Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil, Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil, Centella Asiatica Extract, Tocopherol, Phenoxyethanol, Sorbitan Sesquioleate, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil, Ubiquinone.

</details>

I have to admit I was shocked by the high score on this cleansing balm. Not that I was a major skeptic of Alix Earle's ability to design a skincare line, but cleansing balms usually don't score very high on the skincare classifier (just take a look at [these cleanser reviews](https://www.skinclasshub.com/reviews?page=1&sort=date_desc&type=cleanser) and you will find a pattern). That's somewhat to be expected: cleansing balms are more focused on the mechanical cleansing performance (for removing dirt/makeup/pollution), and less about skin-changing ingredients. Still, even though a cleanser has a short contact time with the skin, it's always good, always *preferable*, to have those treating ingredients, and this cleanser has them. 

It has a well-designed cleansing base, plenty of **good emollients**, and a supporting cast of **antioxidant and soothing ingredients**, without anything that raises obvious red flags. And, unusually, the marketing is pretty well aligned with the ingredient list. The highlighted ingredients appear in roughly the same order as they do on the ingredient list, and the claims made about them are broadly consistent with what we know about these ingredients.

Interestingly, **ubiquinone** (CoQ10), a potent antioxidant with potential skin-protective and anti-aging benefits, also appears at the very bottom of the ingredient list, but the brand doesn't try to turn it into a key ingredient in their marketing. This is actually a point in their favor: CoQ10 makes for an appealing marketing story, but its position in this rinse-off formula means it would be difficult to justify making it a headline active.

Well done, Reale Actives. Off to a great start.

---

## Pore Power: Exfoliating LHA + BHA Gel Cleanser

Retails for $28 for 100 ml

### Classifier Score: **7.8**

![Pore Power Gel Cleanser from Alix Earle's Reale Actives with ingredient function distribution chart](https://images.skinclasshub.com/articles/alix_earle_line_analysis/alix_earle_porepower_gel_cleanser_ingredient_analysis.png)

<details>
<summary>View full ingredient list</summary>

Aqua/Water/Eau, Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate, Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine, Butylene Glycol, Acrylates Copolymer, Decyl Glucoside, Glycerin, Propanediol, Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract, Resveratrol, Fructan, Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Centella Asiatica Extract, Tocopherol, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Sodium Chloride, Sodium PCA, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Citric Acid, Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Maltodextrin, Pentylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Quillaja Saponaria Wood Extract, Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Leaf Extract, Sodium Hydroxide, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate, Saponaria Officinalis Leaf/Root Extract, Tin Oxide.

</details>

Even though this cleanser has a rather impressive-looking list of actives, the score reflects where those actives actually sit in the formula: the first star ingredient, LHA (capryloyl salicylic acid), is the 10th ingredient in the list - and the reason that matters is that the lower an ingredient is on the list, the lower its concentration. 

That being said, there is a lot of good in this formula. **Glycerin, LHA (capryloyl salicylic acid), resveratrol, fructan, aloe vera and tocopherol** all stand out, bringing a nice combination of exfoliating, antioxidant and hydrating benefits to the formula. Of these, the brand highlights **LHA, resveratrol, fructan and glycerin** among its key ingredients.

**LHA is the standout for me.** It gives the cleanser a genuine exfoliating angle and makes this particularly interesting for oily or acne-prone skin. Willow Bark Extract (**Salix Alba Bark Extract**), on the other hand, is a little less straightforward. Although willow bark is often described as a natural source of salicylates and marketed as a BHA, it isn't the same thing as salicylic acid. Its chemical exfoliating properties are a bit questionable, but it has antioxidant and soothing properties, so it's still a good ingredient — just not the main exfoliating one.

All in all, this is a **well-formulated cleanser** that works for acne-prone, sensitive skin, just as advertised.

---

## Go Deep: 8% Mandelic Acid Serum Concentrate

Retails for $39 for 30 ml

### Classifier Score: **9.8**

![Go Deep Serum from Alix Earle's Reale Actives with ingredient function distribution chart](https://images.skinclasshub.com/articles/alix_earle_line_analysis/alix_earle_godeep_serum_ingredient_analysis.png)

<details>
<summary>View full ingredient list</summary>

Aqua/Water/Eau, Mandelic Acid, Propanediol, Arginine, Glycerin, Isopentyldiol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Squalane, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hexylresorcinol, Centella Asiatica Extract, Sodium Phytate, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Ethyl Linoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Xanthan Gum, Pentylene Glycol, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Garcinia Mangostana Peel Extract.

</details>

I like this formula a lot - and so does the SkinClassifier. The hero active is high in the formula, as it should, since it's an 8% mandelic acid serum. At that concentration, it gives the serum a meaningful exfoliating action while still being a gentler alternative to stronger AHAs like glycolic acid. But the supporting ingredients around it also make a lot of sense. **Arginine** and the humectants provide hydration, **squalane** adds emollient and barrier support, while licorice, centella and hexylresorcinol give the formula some additional anti-inflammatory and brightening potential. 

The brand also advertises an ingredient complex, **Synactin AC**, that I was unfamiliar with - but a quick google search showed this is a blend that targets acne-prone skin and is actually composed of ethyl linoleate, hexylresorcinol and caprylic/capric triglyceride. The first two are particularly interesting here: **ethyl linoleate** has been studied for its role in acne and sebum regulation, while **hexylresorcinol** has antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory and skin-brightening properties.

The formula is also refreshingly free of obvious fluff. No alcohol, no fragrance, no "99% natural essential oils" that do nothing beyond smelling good and irritating your skin.

All in all, this is an **excellent active serum**, and one where the marketing is fairly well aligned with the formula. The mandelic acid is present at a meaningful concentration and the supporting ingredients are thoughtfully chosen. Again, well done.

---

## Dew More: Barrier-Boosting Moisturizer

Retails for $38 for 50 ml

### Classifier Score: **8.2**

![Dew More Moisturizer from Alix Earle's Reale Actives with ingredient function distribution chart](https://images.skinclasshub.com/articles/alix_earle_line_analysis/alix_earle_dewmore_moisturizer_ingredient_analysis.png)

<details>
<summary>View full ingredient list</summary>

Aqua/Water/Eau, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, C13-15 Alkane, Diisostearyl Malate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Betaine, 1,2-Hexanediol, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Propanediol, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-1, Ceramide AP, Ceramide NP, Ceramide NS, Ceramide EOP, Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract, Linoleic Acid, Xylitylglucoside, Ectoin, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Cetearyl Glucoside, Lactobacillus Ferment, Sorbitan Oleate Decylglucoside Crosspolymer, Anhydroxylitol, Beta-Glucan, Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Root Extract, Hydrogenated Rapeseed Oil, Maltitol, Tocopherol, Centella Asiatica Extract, Resveratrol, Fructan, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Xylitol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Arginine, Oleic Acid, Xanthan Gum, Palmitic Acid, Pentylene Glycol, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Sodium Phytate, Sodium Dilauramidoglutamide Lysine, Stearic Acid, Citrus Limon (Lemon) Fruit Extract, Butylene Glycol, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Sorbitan Isostearate, Glucose, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Sodium Benzoate, Linolenic Acid, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Salvia Triloba Leaf Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate, Sodium Citrate, Pelvetia Canaliculata Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Citral, Citrus Limon Peel Oil, Limonene.

</details>

Ingredients wise, this is a **very solid moisturiser**. The formula has a strong **barrier-supporting base**, with glycerin, betaine, shea butter and four different ceramides, plus several additional hydrating ingredients further down the list.

The Quad-Ceramide Complex is the obvious star of the formula, and in this case the marketing isn't exaggerating the fact that there are four ceramides: **Ceramide AP, Ceramide NP, Ceramide NS and Ceramide EOP**. Ceramides are important components of the skin barrier, helping to reinforce its lipid structure, reduce water loss and keep the skin hydrated and resilient. **Linoleic acid** is another nice addition here, particularly alongside the ceramides, as it is one of the fatty acids involved in the structure and function of the skin barrier, while **ectoin** adds another layer of hydration and skin-protective support.

The hyaluronic acid claim is also well supported. There are actually four forms of hyaluronic acid in the formula, all serving the same general hydration purpose. But **glycerin** is much higher in the list at #3 and is likely doing considerably more of the heavy lifting - which is to say, hydration is front and center with this product.

**Willow Bark Extract** seems to be here to give the formula its acne-prone-skin angle. Calling it a botanical source of salicylates is technically fair, but that doesn't guarantee meaningful exfoliation or pore-clearing activity. It's a nice supporting botanical, nonetheless.

And then we get to the part I like considerably less: **the formula is unnecessarily busy at the bottom.** There are multiple botanical extracts, including lemon, orange and lavender, along with lemon peel oil and the **fragrance allergens citral and limonene**. They're all very low in the ingredient list, so I'm not suggesting this is a disastrous formula for sensitive skin, but I would rather not see it at all. 

All in all, this is a **very good barrier moisturiser** with a genuinely substantial ceramide and hydration system. The only thing I'd happily leave out is the collection of fragrant ingredients at the bottom — this formula really didn't need them.

---

## The Verdict

The line is missing an SPF to be a complete routine, but overall, this is a **very solid line**, particularly for acne-prone, sensitive skin. It manages to target acne while still being respectful of the skin, which is not always an easy combination to get right.

I don't know nearly enough about Alix Earle to determine whether this is the result of a genuine passion of hers or whether the credit belongs more to the team and investors around her, but whoever is responsible, they have done a great job.

One important caveat: this is an **ingredient analysis, not an actual product test**, so I can't tell you anything about textures, scents, ease of use or, most importantly, actual results on the skin. Because of that, I can't definitively say that these products are good or bad in practice. But they are **promising**.

International shipping isn't currently available, so I can't try them myself, although the brand says on its website that it's coming soon. The cleansing balm and the mandelic acid serum will clearly be going on my wishlist.

I'll be honest: **I wasn't expecting much from an influencer brand, but I was blown out of the water.**



I analyzed every “active” in Alix Earle’s new skincare line. What I found? Not what I expected.

Alix Earle’s Reale Actives: What’s Really in Those Actives? An Ingredient Analysis

Naughty or nice? The priciest calendar isn't always the best-scoring one.

Best Skincare Advent Calendars 2026


    In this article

- [What Is Blue Light?](#what-is-blue-light)
- [Experimentally documented effects of blue light on skin](#experimentally-documented-effects-of-blue-light-on-skin)
  - [Cellular oxidative stress and redox imbalance](#cellular-oxidative-stress-and-redox-imbalance)
  - [Pigmentation and melanocyte activation](#pigmentation-and-melanocyte-activation)
- [Blue Light Myths in Skincare Marketing](#blue-light-myths-in-skincare-marketing)
  - [Myth 1: Blue light from screens significantly damages skin](#myth-1-blue-light-from-screens-significantly-damages-skin)
  - [Myth 2: Blue light damages skin in the same way as UV radiation](#myth-2-blue-light-damages-skin-in-the-same-way-as-uv-radiation)
  - [Myth 3: “Blue light protection” works like SPF](#myth-3-blue-light-protection-works-like-spf)
- [So What Ingredients Are Being Used, and What Does the Evidence Say?](#so-what-ingredients-are-being-used-and-what-does-the-evidence-say)
  - [Pigments (iron oxides)](#pigments-iron-oxides)
  - [Antioxidants](#antioxidants)
  - [Botanical extracts and proprietary complexes](#botanical-extracts-and-proprietary-complexes)
  - [UV filters](#uv-filters)
- [The 3 things that actually matter about blue light and skin](#the-3-things-that-actually-matter-about-blue-light-and-skin)
- [References](#references)
  

---

## **What Is Blue Light?**

**Blue light** refers to a portion of the visible spectrum also known as **high-energy visible (HEV) light**, with wavelengths approximately **400–500 nm**. It is abundant in sunlight but also emitted by digital devices (screens, LEDs) [1].


## **Experimentally documented effects of blue light on skin**

### **Cellular oxidative stress and redox imbalance**

Exposure to blue light (400–500 nm) has been consistently shown to increase **reactive oxygen species (ROS)** in human skin cells across in-vitro, ex-vivo, and in-vivo experimental models [2].

**ROS** are highly reactive molecules derived from oxygen that are naturally produced by our cells; under normal conditions, ROS play useful roles in cell signaling and the maintenance of many important physiological functions; however, **when their production exceeds the skin’s antioxidant capacity**, they can damage proteins, lipids, and DNA — a state known as **oxidative stress** [3,4]. Skin is already particularly vulnerable to oxidative stress because it is constantly exposed to environmental stressors such as light and pollution [3,4].

Unlike ultraviolet radiation, blue light does not interact directly with DNA [5]; instead, it is absorbed by **light-sensitive molecules inside skin cells**, known as **chromophores** (including flavins and porphyrins), which then trigger ROS formation [2]. This mechanism explains why blue light can induce biological stress without behaving like ultraviolet radiation [5].

Experiments using light emitted from **electronic devices** (such as smartphones and computer screens) show that short-term exposure can increase ROS levels in human fibroblasts and keratinocytes under controlled laboratory conditions [6]. However, measurements of real-world light intensity demonstrate that **sunlight delivers far higher biologically effective doses of blue light than electronic devices**, making it the dominant source of blue-light-related oxidative stress in everyday life [7].

In summary, blue light can contribute to oxidative stress in skin by **overloading normal cellular redox balance**, but current evidence indicates that **the magnitude of this effect depends strongly on dose and source**, with solar exposure being far more impactful than screens under typical conditions.

![blue light intensity per device](https://images.skinclasshub.com/articles/blue_light/blue_light_intensity_by_device.png)
<div align="center">
<small>Blue light intensity measurements were adapted from published data [2].</small>
</div>

### **Pigmentation and melanocyte activation**

Pigmentation is one of the **most consistently observed and biologically distinct effects** of blue light on skin, particularly in individuals with **darker skin phototypes** [1,2].

Experimental and in-vivo studies show that exposure to visible blue light can stimulate **melanin production**, leading to **immediate and sometimes persistent hyperpigmentation** [1,2]. Compared to ultraviolet-induced tanning, blue-light-induced pigmentation has been shown to **last longer**, in some cases remaining visible weeks after exposure [1].

Pigmentation responses are **wavelength- and dose-dependent**, with shorter visible wavelengths producing the strongest effects [1,7]. Under real-world conditions, **sunlight provides sufficient blue-light exposure** to induce these changes, whereas emission from electronic devices is far weaker and unlikely to cause visible pigmentation on its own [7].

In summary, blue light can directly stimulate melanocytes and promote melanin production, making **pigmentation one of the few blue-light effects with clear clinical relevance**, especially under solar exposure.


## **Blue Light Myths in Skincare Marketing**

#### **Myth 1: Blue light from screens significantly damages skin**

**Reality:**  
While blue light can induce oxidative stress and pigmentation in experimental models, **the doses required are far higher than those emitted by phones, tablets, or computer screens under normal use** [1,2,7]. Quantitative exposure analyses consistently show that **sunlight delivers orders of magnitude more blue light to the skin** than electronic devices [1,2,7].

#### **Myth 2: Blue light damages skin in the same way as UV radiation**

**Reality:**  
Unlike ultraviolet radiation, **blue light does not directly damage DNA**. Controlled studies in human dermal fibroblasts show **no increase in DNA damage markers** following blue light exposure, even when oxidative stress is present [5].

Any biological effects of blue light occur **indirectly**, mainly through cellular chromophores and oxidative signaling pathways, not through direct genotoxic mechanisms [1,5].

#### **Myth 3: “Blue light protection” works like SPF**

**Reality:**  
Unlike SPF—which is regulated, standardized, and measured using validated testing protocols—claims of “HEV protection” or “blue-light blocking” **are not regulated and have no universally accepted testing or labeling framework** [2].

Effective blocking of blue light (which is visible) would require **visible pigments**, meaning most products marketed as blue-light protection **cannot selectively filter blue light without visibly tinting the skin** [2].


## **So What Ingredients Are Being Used, and What Does the Evidence Say?**

#### **Pigments (iron oxides)**

Among ingredients marketed for blue-light protection, **pigments—particularly iron oxides—are the only class with direct evidence of attenuating visible light**. Optical studies using spectrophotometric measurements show that formulations containing iron oxides significantly reduce transmission of **high-energy visible (HEV) light**, including wavelengths in the blue-light range (≈400–490 nm), by absorption and scattering mechanisms [8]. This confirms that pigments can physically reduce the amount of visible light reaching the skin.

In addition to optical data, **human in-vivo studies show that visible light induces pigmentation**, with more pronounced and persistent effects in darker skin phototypes [1]. Clinical comparisons further demonstrate that **iron-oxide–containing tinted formulations reduce visible-light-induced pigmentation more effectively than non-tinted sunscreens**, supporting a functional link between visible-light attenuation and reduced pigmentary response [9].

#### Antioxidants

Antioxidants are frequently marketed as blue-light protective based on the observation that blue light can induce **reactive oxygen species (ROS)** in skin cells under experimental conditions [2,4]. Antioxidants can neutralise ROS once formed, consistent with their general role in oxidative stress mitigation [3,4]. However, this mechanism is **not specific to blue light**, does not prevent light exposure, and does not constitute photoprotection. Current evidence supports antioxidant use for **general redox balance**, not for selective or primary protection against blue-light exposure [2,3].

#### **Botanical extracts and proprietary complexes**

Botanical extracts and proprietary “digital stress” or “anti-pollution” complexes are commonly included in blue-light-marketed products, but supporting evidence is largely confined to **in-vitro antioxidant effects** [2,4]. These findings do not demonstrate attenuation of visible light or prevention of blue-light-induced effects in human skin. At present, **no direct human in-vivo evidence** supports the use of these ingredients as blue-light protective agents (as in preventive, instead of post-exposure mitigaton agents).

#### **UV filters**

Beyond individual brand claims, retailers—both online and in physical stores—frequently present sunscreens and SPF products as if they provide protection against all forms of light exposure, including blue light. UV filters such as titanium dioxide and zinc oxide are designed, tested, and regulated to protect against UVB and UVA radiation, not visible light. Optical measurements of finished formulations show that products containing UV filters alone provide minimal attenuation of blue and visible light, whereas substantial reduction in blue-light transmission occurs only when pigments such as iron oxides are added [8]. This demonstrates that UV filters, on their own, do not meaningfully attenuate blue or visible light and should not be equated with blue-light protection.

## **The 3 things that actually matter about blue light and skin**

#### **Pin it!**
![the truth about screens and skin damage](https://images.skinclasshub.com/articles/blue_light/Blue_light_infographic.png)


- **Your phone is not ruining your skin — the sun is**  
  Blue light can affect skin under sufficient exposure, but in real life **screens barely register** compared with daylight. If blue light is contributing to skin stress or pigmentation, **solar exposure is the source**, not your laptop or phone.
  
- **“Blue light protection” has no standard — and brands know it**  
  There is **no regulated definition, testing method, or performance threshold** for protecting skin from visible or blue light. Unlike SPF, these claims are **unregulated and non-comparable**, leaving consumers with marketing language instead of measurable protection.
  
- **If you can’t see it, it isn’t blocking anything**  
  Preventing exposure to visible light requires **pigments**. Clear, invisible products do not block blue light and cannot act as preventive protection, regardless of how they are marketed.
  

In short, **blue light is not the next UV, and skincare marketing has largely outpaced the science**.

---

## References

1. **Austin, E., Geisler, A.N., Nguyen, J., et al. (2021).** Visible light. Part I: Properties and cutaneous effects of visible light. *Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology*, 84(5), 1219–1231. [https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC8887026/](https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC8887026/)
  
2. **Suitthimeathegorn, O., Yang, C., Ma, Y., et al. (2022).** Direct and indirect effects of blue light exposure on skin: A review of published literature. *Skin Pharmacology and Physiology*, 35(6), 305–318. [https://karger.com/spp/article/35/6/305/826941/Direct-and-Indirect-Effects-of-Blue-Light-Exposure](https://karger.com/spp/article/35/6/305/826941/Direct-and-Indirect-Effects-of-Blue-Light-Exposure)
  
3. **Birben, E., Sahiner, U.M., Sackesen, C., et al. (2012).** Oxidative stress and antioxidant defense. *World Allergy Organization Journal*, 5(1), 9–19. [https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/23268465/](https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/23268465/)
  
4. **Jomova, K., Raptova, R., Alomar, S.Y., et al. (2023).** Reactive oxygen species, toxicity, oxidative stress, and antioxidants: chronic diseases and aging. *Archives of Toxicology*, 97(10), 2499–2574. [https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC10475008/](https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC10475008/)
  
5. **Kabakova, M., et al. (2025).** Visible blue light does not induce DNA damage in human dermal fibroblasts. *Journal of Biophotonics*, 18(5), e202400510. [https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/40035238/](https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/40035238/)
  
6. **Arjmandi, N., Mortazavi, G., Zarei, S., et al. (2018).** Can light emitted from smartphone screens and taking selfies cause premature aging and wrinkles? *Journal of Biomedical Physics and Engineering*, 8(4), 447–452. [https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC6280109/](https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC6280109/)
  
7. **Gálvez, E.N., Aguilera, J., Solis, A., et al. (2022).** The potential role of UV and blue light from the sun, artificial lighting, and electronic devices in melanogenesis and oxidative stress. *Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology B: Biology*, 228, 112405. [https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1011134422000197](https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1011134422000197)
  
8. **Bernstein, E.F., Sarkas, H.W., Boland, P. (2020).** Iron oxides in novel skin care formulations attenuate blue light for enhanced protection against skin damage. *Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology*, 20(2), 532–537. [https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC7894303/](https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC7894303/)
  
9. **Dumbuya, H., Grimes, P.E., Lynch, S., et al. (2020).** Impact of iron-oxide containing formulations against visible light-induced skin pigmentation in skin of color individuals. *Journal of Drugs in Dermatology*, 19(7), 712–717. [https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/32726103/](https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/32726103/)
    


Is late-night scrolling causing you wrinkles? The "fine lines" between fear and fact.

Blue Light From Screens: Real Skin Damage or Myth?


### In this article

- [What “Comedogenic” Actually Means](#what-comedogenic-actually-means)
- [The Problem with the Comedogenic Scale](#the-problem-with-the-comedogenic-scale)
- [Why Labels Can't be Trusted](#why-labels-cant-be-trusted)
  - [Context Matters](#context-matters)
- [So when it comes to choosing a skincare routine, how can we avoid triggering acne?](#so-when-it-comes-to-choosing-a-skincare-routine-how-can-we-avoid-triggering-acne)
- [References](#references)

## What “Comedogenic” Actually Means

The term *comedogenic* refers to a substance’s potential to contribute to the formation of comedones — clogged pores that appear as blackheads (open comedones) or whiteheads (closed comedones). These form when the pilosebaceous unit becomes blocked by sebum and keratin, disrupting normal follicular shedding and oil flow [1].

While comedones are the starting point of all acne lesions [1], not all breakouts are simply the result of pore blockage. Other factors — like inflammation within the follicular wall, skin barrier dysfunction, or microbial triggers — can worsen or prolong acne beyond the initial comedone stage [2,3].

![pores schematic](https://skinclass-production.up.railway.app/images/articles/comedogenicity/pores_schematic.png)

That's why even if a product is labeled *non-comedogenic*, it can still trigger acne by disrupting the skin barrier or altering the microbiome — pathways that worsen inflammation without necessarily clogging pores [2,3].

For those dealing with acne, it's understandable to seek out products labeled “non-comedogenic” — a term that implies safety from clogged pores. The term traces back to the concept of **comedogenic ratings**. In an attempt to quantify which ingredients are more likely to clog pores, researchers developed a numerical scale — the so-called *comedogenicity scale* — assigning scores to ingredients based on how likely they are to cause comedones. But while the idea sounds scientific and reassuring, the reality is far more complicated.

---

## The Problem with the Comedogenic Scale

The comedogenicity scale originated from *rabbit ear assays*. In these tests, ingredients — often neat or highly concentrated — are applied to rabbit ears to see if comedones form [4]. But the rabbit model is *highly sensitive* and prone to false positives; many substances flagged in rabbits don’t reliably cause comedones in humans [4,5].

Even human testing of comedogenicity remains imperfect. For example, Mills & Kligman (1982) demonstrated that ingredients flagged as comedogenic in rabbit ears can indeed cause comedones in humans—but **when applied under occlusion and in concentrated form** using an upper-back patch method [5]. This controlled setting differs dramatically from real-world use, making it questionable whether those results translate to everyday product application on exposed facial skin.

Moreover, comedogenicity isn’t intrinsic to individual ingredients — it depends heavily on **formulation**. Draelos & DiNardo’s reevaluation found that *finished products* containing comedogenic ingredients don’t necessarily produce comedones, showing that dose, vehicle, and interactions matter more than a single ingredient [6].

Some critics even question the relevance of the rabbit model entirely. Frank noted that rabbit results often don't correlate to acne development in humans, emphasizing the need for human-based validation [7].

---

## Why Labels Can't be Trusted

“Non-comedogenic” gives the impression of scientific credibility — as if the product has passed a defined test and is guaranteed not to clog pores. But there is **no standardized test, no regulatory definition**, and no independent verification behind the label.
Brands can use the term based on old ingredient ratings, internal evaluations, or simply marketing strategy. No authority oversees how the claim is applied — and no consistency is guaranteed in what it actually means.

Comedogenicity isn’t a fixed trait — it depends on how a product is formulated, who’s using it, and under what conditions.

### Context Matters:

- **Concentration matters.** Classic comedogenicity assays often applied undiluted or highly concentrated ingredients. Results at those doses/conditions don’t necessarily predict what happens at lower, in-product use levels [8].
  
- **The vehicle changes everything.** Comedogenicity of an ingredient can vary depending on the solvent of the formulation. It might vary drastically depending of it is in an oil, cream, gel, etc. [4]
  
- **Skin type and environment play a role.** Higher sebum output (oily/combination skin) and hot, humid environments are associated with greater acne prevalence and flares; heat also increases sebum excretion [9].
  
- **Formulation synergy matters.** Some ingredient combinations amplify the pore-blocking effect of certain ingredients, becoming more comedogenic than each of the individual ingredients [4].
  

And last but not least, ingredient lists are only part of the picture - personal sensitivity is unpredictable.

### Pin it!
![comedogenicity infographic](https://skinclass-production.up.railway.app/images/articles/comedogenicity/comedogenicity_context_matters_infographic.png)

---

## So when it comes to choosing a skincare routine, how can we avoid triggering acne?

- **Cleanse twice daily.**  
  Twice-daily washing improved non-inflammatory lesions vs once daily in an randomized controlled trial; **overwashing (4×/day) wasn’t better**. [10]
  
- **Use proven anti-acne actives.**  
  **Retinoids, benzoyl peroxide, and salicylic acid (BHA 0.5–2%)** are evidence-based options for comedonal/mild acne; build tolerance slowly and pair with barrier care [11].
  
- **Prioritize barrier care.**  
  Use products that support barrier function instead of stripping it; barrier repair is part of acne management. [2]
  
- **Introduce one change at a time.** Add/adjust products no more than every 2–3 weeks so you can spot culprits.
  
- **Log what you use and the context.**  
  Note product, date, weather, sweat/occlusion, and breakouts. Patterns often track with environment and oiliness. [9]
  

### Pin it!
![tips to avoid acne](https://skinclass-production.up.railway.app/images/articles/comedogenicity/how_to_avoid_triggering_acne.png)

---

## References

1. **Sutaria, A. H., Masood, S., Saleh, H. M., et al.** **(2023).** Acne vulgaris. *In StatPearls [Internet]. Treasure Island (FL): StatPearls Publishing; 2025 Jan-. Updated August 17, 2023.*  
  [Acne Vulgaris - StatPearls - NCBI Bookshelf](https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK459173/)
  
2. **Deng, Y. et al** **(2024).** Skin Barrier Dysfunction in Acne Vulgaris: Pathogenesis and Therapeutic Approaches. *Medical Science Monitor: International Medical Journal of Experimental and Clinical Research, 30*, e945336. [https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC11650898/](https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC11650898/)
  
3. **Kemény, L., Degovics, D., Szabó, K. (2025).** Is there a place for biologics in acne? *American Journal of Clinical Dermatology*. [https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s40257-025-00954-8](https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s40257-025-00954-8)
  
4. **Fulton, J. E. Jr. (1989).** Comedogenicity and irritancy of commonly used ingredients in skin care products. *Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, 40*(6), 321–333. https://insolitbeauty.com/documentacion/Comedogenicidad%20e%20irritacion%20de%20los%20ingredientes%20de%20uso%20comun%20en%20productos%20para%20el%20cuidado%20de%20la%20piel.pdf
  
5. **Mills, O. H. Jr., Kligman, A. M.(1982).** A human model for assessing comedogenic substances. *Archives of Dermatology, 118*(11), 903–905.  
  [A human model for assessing comedogenic substances - PubMed](https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/7138047/)
  
6. **Draelos, Z.D., & DiNardo, J.C. (2006).** A re-evaluation of the comedogenicity concept. *Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 54*(3), 507–512. [https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0190962205046001](https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0190962205046001)
  
7. **Frank, S.B. (1982).** Is the rabbit ear model, in its present state, prophetic of acnegenicity? *Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 6(3), 373–377. [https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0190962282700325](https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0190962282700325)
  
8. **Waranuch, N., Wisutthathum, S., Tuanthai, S., et al. (2021).** Safety assessment on comedogenicity of dermatological products containing d-alpha tocopheryl acetate in Asian subjects: A double-blind randomized controlled trial. *Contemporary Clinical Trials Communications, 23*, 100834 [https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC8387765](https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC8387765/)
  
9. **Dréno, B., Bettoli, V., Araviiskaia, E., et al. (2018).** The influence of exposome on acne. *Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, 32*(5), 812–819. [https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC5947266/](https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC5947266/)
  
10. **Choi, J. M., Lew, V. K., Kimball, A. B. (2006).** A single-blinded, randomized, controlled clinical trial evaluating the effect of face washing on acne vulgaris. *Pediatric Dermatology, 23*(5), 421–427. [https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/17014635/](https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/17014635/)
  
11. **Reynolds, R. V., Yeung, H., Cheng, C. E., et al. (2024).** Guidelines of care for the management of acne vulgaris. *Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 90*(5), 1006.e1–1006.e30. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/38300170/


From rabbit ears to bathroom shelves — decoding “non-comedogenic” and the gap between tests and real skin.

Is It Really Non-Comedogenic? What the Label Doesn’t Tell You


Water is the most common ingredient in skincare. In traditional emulsions like lotions or creams, it typically makes up **60–85%** of the formula [1]. Water normally acts as a solvent, filler, and emulsifying medium in cosmetics, but it doesn't come without formulation challenges: it enables microbial growth, requiring preservatives [2], and can impose limits on how much of an active ingredient can be included due to low aqueous solubility [3] or their chemical instability in water [4].

**Waterless skincare** — also called anhydrous skincare — refers to products formulated without added water. These are typically concentrated balms, oils, powders, or solid bars. The trend began in Asia a few years ago with the aim to eliminate water from products to **avoid diluting active ingredients** and thus boost potency [5]. Proponents claim they are more potent, longer-lasting, and more sustainable. The reality is more nuanced.

---

## Formulation Implications

### Advantages

Without water as a base, products must rely on alternative formats. Common examples include facial oils and oil-based serums (pure oil blends), balms and sticks (semi-solid mixtures of oils and waxes), and certain cleansers or masks sold as **dry powders or tablets** that are activated by water during use [5]. Formulating without water also means **preservatives** can be reduced or skipped entirely – water-based products need preservatives to prevent microbial growth [5], but anhydrous formulas can be self-preserving, eliminating the need for preservatives [5] - which some consumers view as a source of irritation and allergen exposure. This also contributes to a longer shelf life for many waterless products (dry formulations like powders often last significantly longer than their water-containing counterparts).

### Limitations

The absence of water imposes some formulation challenges. Any active ingredient that normally requires water (for example, a water-soluble vitamin) must be reformulated or **excluded** [6] . Many common skincare actives (like hyaluronic acid or vitamins) are water-soluble, so they must be replaced with oil-soluble equivalents or novel delivery forms.

Certain product types are hard to formulate without water (you won’t find a true “waterless toner” or light gel moisturizer, since some textures simply require water). In general the **range of available waterless products** is growing but remains smaller than traditional offerings in most categories[5].

Creating stable **solid formats** (such as balms or bars) can be tricky – without water to form an emulsion, the texture and melting point have to be managed through waxes and thickeners [7].

A recent study noted that removing water from a product and compressing it into a bar form brings “a range of challenges and limitations,” requiring innovative formulation strategies [7].They also pay close attention to **sensory properties** – ensuring the product spreads easily and feels pleasant, not overly greasy or heavy, despite lacking the lightness that water provides. Also, without water, products may not give the same immediate cooling or hydrating sensation as a water-based lotion. Oils and balms mainly seal in moisture, but obviously, **do not add water** to the skin.

## Sustainability Claims

A key motivation behind waterless beauty is the potential to reduce the industry’s **water footprint**. Water is not only the bulk of many cosmetic formulas, but also heavily used in cultivation of ingredients, in manufacturing processes (e.g. cleaning equipment, heating/cooling), and by consumers (rinsing off products) [8]. By removing water from formulations, companies seek to directly **reduce the water consumption per product** [5].

Waterless or concentrated products can also have secondary environmental benefits. Solid and concentrated formulas generally require **less packaging and lighter shipping**, cutting down on plastic waste and transport emissions [5]. Likewise, production can be more energy-efficient – if there’s no water phase to heat, the manufacturing process uses less energy and generates a smaller carbon footprint [5]. Additionally, using fewer (or no) synthetic preservatives means **fewer chemicals entering wastewater**, which potentially lowers the product’s ecological impact [9].

It’s important to note that “waterless” does not automatically equal “100% sustainable.” Even a product with zero water in its formula still **indirectly uses water** in its life cycle – for example, farming botanical ingredients and producing packaging consume water. Without accounting for **indirect water use**, there is a risk that waterless claims may **oversimplify** a product’s environmental profile and mislead consumers regarding its overall sustainability.

## Consumer Trade-offs

For consumers, waterless skincare offers notable **benefits** but also some **trade-offs**. 

| **Potential Advantages** | **Potential Limitations** |
| --- | --- |
| **Higher concentration of actives**<br/>No water means actives aren’t diluted. | **Some actives must be excluded**<br/>Water-soluble ingredients (e.g. [niacinamide](https://www.skinclasshub.com/theknowledgehub/ingredient-dictionary/niacinamide), pure [vitamin C](https://www.skinclasshub.com/theknowledgehub/ingredient-dictionary/vitamin-c), peptides) may not be usable without modification or encapsulation. |
| **No added preservatives**<br/>Lower risk of irritation from common preservative allergens. | **Less instant hydration**<br/>Oils and balms seal moisture but do not provide water-based hydration.    |
| **Longer shelf life**<br/>Low water activity extends product stability. | **Different texture/application**<br/>May feel heavier or greasier than water-based products. |
| **Less packaging & travel-friendly**<br/>Solid formats reduce packaging waste and comply with liquid restrictions. | **Limited product variety**<br/>Certain formats (e.g. toners, light gels) are difficult to create without water. |

## In Summary

![Waterless Skincare Summary Infographic](https://skinclass-production.up.railway.app/images/articles/waterless_skincare_skinclasshub.png)

## **References**

1. **Brito, I., Ferreira, S. M., & Santos, L.** (2023). On the path to sustainable cosmetics: Development of a Value-Added Formulation of Solid Shampoo Incorporating Mango Peel Extract. *Cosmetics, 10*(5), 140. [https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/10/5/140](https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/10/5/140)
  
2. **Halla, N.** *et al.* (2018). Cosmetics preservation: A review on present strategies. *Molecules*, 23, 1571. https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules23071571
  
3. **Marques, C.** *et al.* (2024). Mechanistic insights into the multiple functions of [niacinamide](https://www.skinclasshub.com/theknowledgehub/ingredient-dictionary/niacinamide): Therapeutic implications and cosmeceutical applications in functional skincare products. *Antioxidants*, 13(4), 425. https://doi.org/10.3390/antiox13040425
  
4. **Goswami, S.** *et al.* (2025). In vitro, ex vivo, instrumental, and clinical assessment of a novel anti‑aging serum targeting oxidative stress. *Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 24*(4), e16664. https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.16664
  
5. **Lukić, M.**, & **Krajišnik, D.** (2024). Challenges and advances in waterless cosmetic product development: Raising awareness of water sustainability. *Arhiv za farmaciju, 74*, 735–757. [(PDF) Challenges and advances in waterless cosmetic product development: Raising awareness of water sustainability](https://www.researchgate.net/publication/387726313_Challenges_and_advances_in_waterless_cosmetic_product_development_Raising_awareness_of_water_sustainability)
  
6. **Presperse.** (n.d.). Anhydrous formulations 101: A formulator’s guide to waterless skincare. *Let’s Make Beauty*. [Anhydrous Formulations 101: A Formulator’s Guide to Waterless Skincare](https://www.letsmakebeauty.com/blog/post/anhydrous-formulations-101-a-formulators-guide-to-waterless-skincare)
  
7. **Ogorzałek, M.** *et al.* (2024). Research on waterless cosmetics in the form of scrub bars based on natural exfoliants. *Applied Sciences, 14*(23), 11329. [Research on Waterless Cosmetics in the Form of Scrub Bars Based on Natural Exfoliants](https://doi.org/10.3390/app142311329)
  
8. **Aguiar, J. B.**, *et al*. (2022). Water sustainability: A waterless life cycle for cosmetic products. *Sustainable Production and Consumption*. [Water sustainability: A waterless life cycle for cosmetic products | Request PDF](https://www.researchgate.net/publication/359847930_Water_sustainability_A_waterless_life_cycle_for_cosmetic_products)
  
9. **Nowak‑Lange, M.** *et al.* (2022). Cosmetic preservatives: Hazardous micropollutants in need of greater attention? *International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 23*(22), 14495. [Cosmetic Preservatives: Hazardous Micropollutants in Need of Greater Attention?](https://doi.org/10.3390/ijms232214495)


No water, no waste — or just a well-packaged illusion? A deep dive into the claims of waterless skincare.

Waterless Skincare: Innovative or Just a Thirsty Trend?

Hyped, cutting-edge, and possibly banned: the truth behind exosomes in cosmetics.

Think You’re Using Exosomes? Why the EU Banned Them (and What You’re Actually Getting)


The necessity of eye creams has long been debated in the skincare world. While some claim they are essential for addressing the unique needs of the delicate under-eye area, others argue they are little more than a marketing gimmick. This article explores the scientific evidence, regulatory distinctions, and industry practices to determine whether eye creams are truly necessary or just redundant.

---

### Is the eye area even different from the rest of the face?


Yes, the periorbital region has distinct anatomical and physiological characteristics that make it more prone to dryness, wrinkles, dark circles, and puffiness. These differences include:

- **Thinner Epidermis & Dermis** – The periorbital skin is notably thinner compared to other facial regions **(1)** - which makes underlying blood vessels more visible (dark circles).
- **Frequent Movement & Mechanical Stress** – blinking, plus squinting and rubbing maske the eye area more susceptible to fine line formation since repeated skin flexure causes wrinkles **(2)**.
- **Higher Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL)** – The eye area **loses moisture faster** than other parts of the face **(3)**.

These factors **theoretically** justify specialized skincare—but do eye creams actually contain unique formulations?

---

### Do eye creams have to be formulated differently than facial creams and serums?


According to cosmetic regulations, the answer is **no**. Cosmetic regulations do not require eye creams to have specific formulations - and therefore, they don't. Ingredients in eye creams are the same found in moisturizers and serums that are marketed towards the rest of the face.

In both the U.S. (FDA) and European Union, eye creams are regulated as cosmetics under the same category as moisturizers and serums. There is no regulatory requirement that distinguishes eye creams from other skincare products in terms of formulation, safety testing, or efficacy standards. The **only regulatory constraint** is that **products intended for use around the eyes must be tested for ocular irritation (4)**, but this does not affect ingredient selection. 

So, eye creams don't *have* to be different... but are they?

---

### In practice, are eye creams different/more targeted?


Some brands choose to make certain adjustments for the periorbital area, the most common being removing fragrance and lowering active ingredient concentrations to reduce the risk of irritation. However, these changes are not universal, and again, there is no legal requirement ensuring that eye creams are gentler or more effective. Simply choosing an "eye cream" does not ensure a gentler formulation.

Eye creams often claim to target dark circles, puffiness, and wrinkles, but the active ingredients they use are the same ones found in serums and face moisturizers.For hydration, eye creams rely on humectants (hyaluronic acid, [glycerin](https://www.skinclasshub.com/theknowledgehub/ingredient-dictionary/glycerin)), emollients ([squalane](https://www.skinclasshub.com/theknowledgehub/ingredient-dictionary/squalane), fatty acids), and occlusives (ceramides, petrolatum)—all of which are already present in well-formulated face moisturizers.

For **anti-aging**, they often contain retinol, peptides, [niacinamide](https://www.skinclasshub.com/theknowledgehub/ingredient-dictionary/niacinamide), and [vitamin C](https://www.skinclasshub.com/theknowledgehub/ingredient-dictionary/vitamin-c), just like face serums. Some eye creams dilute these actives, but others use the same concentrations or higher, making them **functionally no different** from serums or night creams.

For **dark circles and puffiness**, [caffeine](https://www.skinclasshub.com/theknowledgehub/ingredient-dictionary/caffeine) is a commonly used ingredient. However, clinical studies show that **[caffeine](https://www.skinclasshub.com/theknowledgehub/ingredient-dictionary/caffeine)’s decongestant effect is temporary** and does not address structural causes of under-eye bags. Moreover, face serums containing [caffeine](https://www.skinclasshub.com/theknowledgehub/ingredient-dictionary/caffeine) often have equal or higher concentrations than eye creams, meaning they may be just as or more effective.

The best approach is not to assume an eye cream is necessary, but rather to **identify the concern** (hydration, wrinkles, dark circles) and **select a product that effectively addresses it**—whether that is an eye cream, a serum, or a moisturizer.

---
 
### Conclusion

From a regulatory and formulation perspective, eye creams and face creams are interchangeable. A brand can legally sell the same formula under both labels or switch them without consequence, underscoring the lack of meaningful distinctions between these products. 

The perceived necessity of eye creams is largely a result of marketing strategies aimed at encouraging consumers to purchase a separate product for the under-eye area. That being said, that doesn't mean that there aren't good products out there that happen to be labeled "eye cream". It just means the "eye cream" labelling alone holds no meaning (unlike "[SPF](https://www.skinclasshub.com/theknowledgehub/is-spf-100-a-scam-the-truth-behind-high-spf-sunscreens)", for example, which is highly regulated). As consumers, we shouldn't assume a product addresses our eye area skin concerns just because it's named an eye cream. We should look at ingredients (and compare price per ml) before making a decision.

---


### References

1.**Tagami, H.** *Location-related differences in structure and function of the [stratum corneum](https://www.skinclasshub.com/theknowledgehub/cosmetic-glossary/stratum-corneum) with special emphasis on those of the facial skin.* *International Journal of Cosmetic Science.* https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2008.00459.x

2.**Hillebrand, G. G., Liang, Z., Yan, X., & Yoshii, T.** *New wrinkles on wrinkling: an 8-year longitudinal study on the progression of expression lines into persistent wrinkles.* *British Journal of Dermatology.* https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/20184587/

3.**Voegeli, R., Rawlings, A. V., Seroul, P., & Summers, B. (2015).** A novel continuous colour mapping approach for visualization of facial skin hydration and transepidermal water loss for four ethnic groups. *International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 37*(6), 595–605. [https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111/ics.12265](https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111/ics.12265)

4.**European Parliament and Council.** *Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council on cosmetic products.* *Official Journal of the European Union.* [EUR-Lex - Official Journal of the European Union](https://health.ec.europa.eu/system/files/2016-11/cosmetic_1223_2009_regulation_en_0.pdf)


Touted as skincare essentials, eye creams often boast ‘specialized’ formulas—but look closer, and you might just find a regular face cream with a higher price tag.

Eye Creams: Useful or Redundant? A Scientific Perspective


If you’ve ever shopped for sunscreen, you’ve probably seen bottles labeled SPF 30, SPF 50, at most SPF 50++. But in some countries, you’ll find sunscreens boasting SPF 100, 110, or even 130 - numbers that seem to promise unbeatable protection from the sun.

It sounds great, right? After all, SPF 100 must be **twice as protective** as SPF 50, right?

**Not exactly.**

---

### What Does SPF Actually Measure?

SPF, or Sun Protection Factor, is one of the most misunderstood numbers in skincare. Many people assume that higher SPF means dramatically better protection, but that’s not how it works.

**SPF is a multiplier of UVB exposure, not a time extension (1).** I wrongly assumed that if your skin could tolerate sun for 5 minutes before starting to burn, then with SPF 15 it could withstand 5x15=75 minutes, and with SPF 30 it could withstand 5x30=150 minutes. Well, that's not exactly right.

The SPF number tells you **how much more UVB exposure your skin can tolerate before burning, compared to bare skin**. It does not mean you can stay in the sun 100 times longer with SPF 100. Here is how SPF is measured **(2)**:

<div style="display: flex; flex-direction: row; align-items: center; justify-content: center; font-size: 1.2em;">
  <span style="white-space: nowrap; margin-right: 10px;">SPF =</span>
  <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; align-items: center;">
    <div>Minimal Erythemal Dose (MED) on protected skin</div>
    <hr style="width: 100%; margin: 4px 0;" />
    <div>Minimal Erythemal Dose (MED) on unprotected skin</div>
  </div>
</div>

- **Minimal Erythemal Dose (MED)** = The amount of UV radiation needed to cause visible redness.
  
- SPF 100 means it takes 100 times more UVB radiation to cause a burn compared to bare skin.
  
- SPF 50 means it takes 50 times more UVB radiation to cause a burn.
  

At first glance, SPF 100 seems like a big improvement over SPF 50—but in reality, it only blocks about 1% more UVB rays. **UVB protection does not increase linearly**—it follows a diminishing returns curve.

| SPF Level | UVB Radiation Blocked | UVB That Still Reaches Skin |
| --- | --- | --- |
| SPF 15 | **93%** | **7%** |
| SPF 30 | **96.7%** | **3.3%** |
| SPF 50 | **98%** | **2%** |
| SPF 100 | **99%** | **1%** |

This happens because SPF measures how much UV radiation reaches the skin, **not how much is blocked**. Here’s the key difference:

- **SPF 50 allows 1/50th (2%) of UVB radiation to reach the skin.**
  
- **SPF 100 allows 1/100th (1%) of UVB radiation to reach the skin.**
  

While SPF 100 reduces UVB exposure by half compared to SPF 50, the difference in absolute UVB blocking is only 1% more protection—because SPF 50 already blocks 98% of UVB rays, leaving very little left to block.

This is why dermatologists and regulatory agencies often say that **SPF 50 is already sufficient**—because the **increase in protection is minimal**, but the risk of misuse (thinking you don’t need to reapply if you have a higher SPF) increases.

### Pin it!

![what does spf actually measure](https://skinclass-production.up.railway.app/images/articles/spf100/spf_infograph.png)

---

### Why Some Countries Allow SPF 100 (and Others Don’t)

SPF 100 sunscreens are available in some countries but banned in others. This isn’t because they don’t work, but because different health agencies have different approaches to sunscreen regulation and consumer protection.

The European Union and Australia **cap SPF labeling at 50+ to prevent misleading claims (3,4)**, since SPF 50 already blocks 98% of UVB rays, while SPF 100 blocks 99%—a negligible difference in real-world protection. Studies show **that people using high-SPF sunscreens tend to stay in the sun longer (5),** leading to greater UV exposure despite the higher SPF. To counteract this, some countries limit SPF claims to 50+ to encourage correct usage rather than relying on high numbers for a false sense of security.

In contrast, countries like the US, China, and some parts of Latin America allow SPF 100+ on labels as long as the sunscreen meets testing standards. The reasoning is that most people don’t apply enough sunscreen, so a **higher SPF may help compensate for under-application - and there are studies that support this (6,7)**.

Even in regions where SPF 100 is "banned," the formulas themselves are not. In the EU and Australia, an SPF 100 sunscreen can still be sold, but it must be labeled SPF 50+ to comply with regulations. This means that if a brand sells SPF 100 in the US and SPF 50+ in Europe, the product may be exactly the same—the only difference is the label. The goal of these regulations isn’t to stop consumers from using high-SPF products but to prevent misleading marketing and ensure people focus on proper application and **reapplication**, which matter far more than chasing higher SPF numbers.

---

### What about UVA (the silent killer)?

SPF (Sun Protection Factor) measures **protection against UVB rays**, the type of ultraviolet radiation responsible for sunburn and direct DNA damage leading to non-melanoma skin cancers.

UVB rays primarily affect the outer layers of the skin, causing visible sunburn. SPF testing is based on [erythema](https://www.skinclasshub.com/theknowledgehub/cosmetic-glossary/erythema) (redness), which is triggered by UVB exposure, making it a straightforward way to measure **how much UVB protection a sunscreen provides**. It does not account for **UVA protection**. UVA rays, on the other hand, penetrate **deeper into the skin**, damaging collagen and elastin, leading to **wrinkles, sagging, hyperpigmentation, and an increased risk of melanoma (8,9)** (the deadliest type of skin cancer). Unlike UVB, UVA is present all day, year-round, and penetrates through clouds and glass.

##### Why Isn’t There a Universal UVA Protection Rating?

Unlike UVB protection, which is easy to measure using [erythema](https://www.skinclasshub.com/theknowledgehub/cosmetic-glossary/erythema) response, UVA exposure does not cause an immediate, visible reaction like sunburn. This makes it harder to quantify its protection factor in a simple, standardized way. However, several methods exist:

- In the **EU, Australia, and Japan**, [broad-spectrum](https://www.skinclasshub.com/theknowledgehub/cosmetic-glossary/broad-spectrum) sunscreens must provide UVA protection equal to at least one-third of their SPF rating, determined through in vitro tests like critical wavelength assessment (a measure of how much of the UVA spectrum a sunscreen absorbs) **(10,11)**.
  
- Persistent Pigment Darkening (PPD), used in the **PA+ system** (common in Japan and South Korea), evaluates how long it takes for UVA exposure to cause lasting pigmentation. PA+ to PA++++ rankings indicate increasing levels of UVA protection **(12)**.
  
- In the **US**, the FDA only requires a pass/fail “[broad-spectrum](https://www.skinclasshub.com/theknowledgehub/cosmetic-glossary/broad-spectrum)” designation, with no clear UVA protection scale **(13)**.
  

The **lack of a globally standardized UVA rating** makes it difficult for consumers to assess how much protection a sunscreen provides beyond its SPF value. **While SPF 100 may prevent sunburn better than SPF 50, it does not necessarily mean superior** **UVA protection**, which is why dermatologists recommend **choosing [broad-spectrum](https://www.skinclasshub.com/theknowledgehub/cosmetic-glossary/broad-spectrum) sunscreens with proven UVA filters instead of focusing solely on SPF numbers**.

---

### So, what's the veredict? Is SPF 100 worth it?

The difference in UVB blocking between SPF 50 and SPF 100 is just **1%**, and the added protection is often outweighed by the risk of **misuse**. SPF 100 might be useful for high risk individuals, or in prolonged outdoor activities, mainly because higher SPF may help offset the fact that most people don't apply enough sunscreen, as indicated by so many studies to even be worth referencing (but I'll reference some anyway: **(14,15)**).

But even in those situations, you shouldn't forget that **UVA exposure remains a concern**: SPF only measures UVB protection. A **[broad-spectrum](https://www.skinclasshub.com/theknowledgehub/cosmetic-glossary/broad-spectrum)** sunscreen with strong UVA filters is **more important than just a high SPF number**. SPF 100 **isn’t a scam**, but **correct application and reapplication matter far more than the SPF number**.

---

### References

1.**U.S. Food and Drug Administration.** Sun Protection Factor (SPF). *FDA.* [Sun Protection Factor (SPF) | FDA](https://www.fda.gov/about-fda/center-drug-evaluation-and-research-cder/sun-protection-factor-spf)

2.**Latha, M. S., Martis, J., Shobha, V., Sham Shinde, R., Bangera, S., Krishnankutty, B., Bellary, S., Varughese, S., Rao, P., & Kumar, B. R. (2013).** Sunscreening agents: a review. *Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 6*(1), 16–26. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3543289/

3.**European Commission.** Questions and Answers on the Commission Recommendation on the efficacy of sunscreen products and the claims made relating thereto. *Press Release MEMO/07/282.* [Press corner | European Commission](https://ec.europa.eu/commission/presscorner/detail/en/memo_07_282)

4,11.**Therapeutic Goods Administration.** Australian regulatory guidelines for sunscreens. *Australian Government Department of Health.* https://www.tga.gov.au/sites/default/files/australian-regulatory-guidelines-for-sunscreens.pdf

5.**Autier, P., Doré, J. F., Négrier, S., Liénard, D., Panizzon, R., Lejeune, F. J., Guggisberg, D., & Eggermont, A. M. M. (1999).** Sunscreen use and duration of sun exposure: a double-blind, randomized trial. *Journal of the National Cancer Institute, 91*(15), 1304–1309. [https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/10433619](https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/10433619)

6.**Ou-Yang, H., Stanfield, J., Cole, C., Appa, Y., & Rigel, D. (2012).** High-SPF sunscreens (SPF ≥ 70) may provide ultraviolet protection above minimal recommended levels by adequately compensating for lower sunscreen user application amounts. *Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 67*(6), 1220–1227. https://www.jaad.org/article/S0190-9622(12)00260-5/abstract

7.**Williams, J. D., Maitra, P., Atillasoy, E., Wu, M. M., Farberg, A. S., & Rigel, D. S. (2018).** SPF 100+ sunscreen is more protective against sunburn than SPF 50+ in actual use: Results of a randomized, double-blind, split-face, natural sunlight exposure clinical trial. *Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 78*(5), 902–910.e2. https://www.jaad.org/article/S0190-9622(17)32908-0/abstract

8.**Cahoon, E. K., Mandal, S., Pfeiffer, R. M., Wheeler, D. C., Sargen, M. R., Alexander, B. H., Kitahara, C. M., Linet, M. S., & Mai, J. Z. (2024).** Ambient ultraviolet A, ultraviolet B, and risk of melanoma in a nationwide United States cohort, 1984–2014. *Journal of the National Cancer Institute, 116*(12), 1928–1933. [https://academic.oup.com/jnci/article/116/12/1928/7730113](https://academic.oup.com/jnci/article/116/12/1928/7730113)

9.**Jin, S. G., Padron, F., & Pfeifer, G. P. (2022).** UVA radiation, DNA damage, and melanoma. *ACS Omega, 7*(37), 32936–32948. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC9494637/

10.**European Commission.** Commission Recommendation of 22 September 2006 on the efficacy of sunscreen products and the claims made relating thereto (2006/647/EC). *Official Journal of the European Union.* [EUR-Lex - 32006H0647 - EN - EUR-Lex](https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/TXT/?uri=CELEX:32006H0647)

12.**Japan Cosmetic Industry Association.** UV Protection Grade (PA) System. *JCIA.* https://www.jcia.org/en/common/download/top/jcia-notifications-spf-pa.pdf

13.**U.S. Food and Drug Administration.** Labeling and effectiveness testing: sunscreen drug products for over-the-counter human use. *Federal Register, 76*(117), 35620–35665. https://www.federalregister.gov/documents/2011/06/17/2011-14766/labeling-and-effectiveness-testing-sunscreen-drug-products-for-over-the-counter-human-use

14.**Petersen, B., & Wulf, H. C. (2014).** Application of sunscreen—Theory and reality. *Photodermatology, Photoimmunology & Photomedicine, 30*(2–3), 96–101. https://doi.org/10.1111/phpp.12099

15.**Kim, S. M., Oh, B. H., Lee, Y. W., Choe, Y. B., & Ahn, K. J. (2010).** The relation between the amount of sunscreen applied and the sun protection factor in Asian skin. *Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 62*(2), 218–222. [https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jaad.2009.06.047](https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jaad.2009.06.047)

Does SPF 100 really protect better? This article cuts through the marketing to reveal what high-SPF sunscreens actually do—and what they don’t.

Is SPF 100 a Scam? The Truth Behind High SPF Sunscreens


When it comes to skincare, packaging is often dominated by glossy promises of “glowing skin” or “anti-aging miracles.” Marketing appeal takes over and technicalities take back seat, but no matter how groundbreaking the formulation inside, if the packaging fails, your expensive serum might as well be a $20 bottle of tap water. Let’s dive deeper into why packaging isn’t just an aesthetic choice but a scientific necessity for maintaining the efficacy and safety of skincare products.

---

## **1. Protection from the Elements: Keeping Your Actives Active**

Some of the most popular skincare ingredients are highly sensitive to environmental factors such as light, air, and humidity. These actives degrade when exposed to those elements, reducing their effectiveness or altering their chemical composition. Proper packaging can significantly extend the shelf life and potency of these actives.

### **Some great ingredients that are affected by air and light are:**

#### **[Vitamin C](https://www.skinclasshub.com/theknowledgehub/ingredient-dictionary/vitamin-c)**
[Vitamin C](https://www.skinclasshub.com/theknowledgehub/ingredient-dictionary/vitamin-c) ([ascorbic acid](https://www.skinclasshub.com/theknowledgehub/ingredient-dictionary/ascorbic-acid)) is widely used in skincare for its antioxidant properties and ability to brighten skin. However, it is highly unstable and undergoes oxidative degradation when exposed to air and light, leading to reduced potency. Studies have shown that unprotected [vitamin C](https://www.skinclasshub.com/theknowledgehub/ingredient-dictionary/vitamin-c) formulations can lose significant efficacy within a short period. (1)  
Stabilized forms of [vitamin C](https://www.skinclasshub.com/theknowledgehub/ingredient-dictionary/vitamin-c), such as [ascorbyl palmitate](https://www.skinclasshub.com/theknowledgehub/ingredient-dictionary/ascorbyl-palmitate) or [magnesium ascorbyl phosphate](https://www.skinclasshub.com/theknowledgehub/ingredient-dictionary/magnesium-ascorbyl-phosphate), are more resistant but still require light-protective and airtight packaging.

#### **Retinoids**
Retinoids, including retinol and tretinoin, are effective for improving skin texture, reducing wrinkles, and treating acne. However, they degrade rapidly when exposed to light and oxygen. Research indicates that retinol loses a significant portion of its activity within weeks of exposure to air and light, especially if stored in transparent containers. (2)  
Opaque, air-restrictive packaging is essential to maintain their efficacy.

#### **Other Antioxidants and Plant Extracts**
Antioxidants such as vitamin E ([tocopherol](https://www.skinclasshub.com/theknowledgehub/ingredient-dictionary/tocopherol)), ferulic acid, and most plant extracts are sensitive to air and light. These compounds, while effective at combating oxidative stress, become unstable when exposed to environmental factors. Studies show that certain plant extracts lose their antioxidant activity significantly under poor storage conditions. (3)

---

## **2. Hygienic Packaging: Preventing Contamination**

Each time a product is exposed to air or touched, its safety and efficacy can be compromised. Contaminated skincare products not only lose effectiveness but can also pose risks to skin health.

### **Why Contamination Matters**
- **Microbial Growth:** Water-based formulations are especially susceptible to bacterial and fungal contamination. While preservatives help control microbial growth, they cannot compensate for repeated contamination. (4)
- **Degradation of Ingredients:** Exposure to bacteria can also destabilize sensitive ingredients, leading to reduced efficacy or altered chemical properties.

---

## **Best Packaging Practices**
Not all products require air-tight and light-blocking packaging, but chances are that comprehensive, well rounded and effective formulations contain some air and /or light sensitive ingredients. To ensure the longevity of those products, reduce the risk of contamination, and make sure you get your money’s worth out of them, opt for:
- **Airless Pumps or Squeeze Tubes:** Minimize air and microbial exposure.
- **Opaque or Dark Glass Containers:** Shield contents from light.
- **Single-Use Capsules:** Provide optimal protection for sensitive ingredients, ensuring the product remains sealed until use.
- **Avoid Clear Jars:** These allow UV and oxygen exposure, as well as a lot of direct contact with the product, increasing the risk of contamination.

---

## **Conclusion**
Skincare packaging is more than a superficial detail—it plays a critical role in preserving the potency, stability, and hygiene of products. Ingredients like [vitamin C](https://www.skinclasshub.com/theknowledgehub/ingredient-dictionary/vitamin-c), retinoids, and various antioxidants are highly effective but also sensitive to environmental factors. Without proper packaging, these actives can lose their benefits long before the product is finished.
When choosing skincare, consider the packaging as carefully as the ingredient list. A beautifully designed jar might be tempting, but if it compromises the formula inside, it’s not worth the price. Packaging should ensure your skincare delivers on its promises—from the first pump to the last.

---

### References
1. **Pinnell, S. R., Yang, H., Omar, M., Monteiro-Riviere, N. A., DeBuys, H. V., Walker, L. C., Wang, Y., & Levine, M. (2001).** Topical L-[ascorbic acid](https://www.skinclasshub.com/theknowledgehub/ingredient-dictionary/ascorbic-acid): percutaneous absorption studies. *Dermatologic Surgery, 27*(2), 137–142. [https://doi.org/10.1046/j.1524-4725.2001.00264.x](https://doi.org/10.1046/j.1524-4725.2001.00264.x)  
2. **Temova Rakuša, Ž., Škufca, P., Kristl, A., & Roškar, R. (2021).** Retinoid stability and degradation kinetics in commercial cosmetic products. *Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 20*(7), 2350–2358. [https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/33206444/](https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/33206444/)
3. **Wang, Y. J., Pan, M. H., Cheng, A. L., Lin, L. I., Ho, Y. S., Hsieh, C. Y., & Lin, J. K. (1997).** Stability of curcumin in buffer solutions and characterization of its degradation products. *Journal of Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Analysis, 15*(12), 1867–1876. [https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0731708596020249](https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0731708596020249)
4. **Lee, J. M., Ryu, S. I., Kim, J. I., Park, S., Kim, I. H., Park, M. S., & Ryu, H. J. (2019).** Contribution of container types on cosmetics contamination. *Annals of Dermatology, 31*(5), 588–590. [https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC7992568](https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC7992568)    


Discover why skincare packaging is more than just aesthetics—it’s key to product effectiveness.

The Knowledge Hub

Ingredient Dictionary

Cosmetic Glossary