3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is a stable, water-soluble vitamin C derivative that offers notable advantages over pure ascorbic acid, particularly in terms of skin penetration, pH compatibility, and antioxidant longevity [1].​

Formulation Advantages & Skin Benefits

Recent studies have highlighted several unique properties of 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid:​

• Enhanced Stability: This derivative exhibits greater resistance to oxidation compared to L-ascorbic acid. Optimal stability has been observed at a pH of 5.46 and a temperature of 36.3°C, making it suitable for formulations closer to the skin's natural pH [2].

• Effective Skin Penetration: In vitro studies using porcine skin models have demonstrated that 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid can penetrate the stratum corneum effectively [3].

• Anti-Aging Effects: A cosmetic serum containing 30% 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and 1% lactic acid demonstrated improvements in skin elasticity and a reduction in pigmentation in both in vitro cell cultures and 3D reconstructed tissue models [1].

Safety and Tolerability

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is generally well-tolerated in topical applications. Patch tests with concentrations up to 2% showed no skin irritation, and a human repeat insult patch test (HRIPT) at 100% concentration indicated no sensitization. However, in vitro eye irritation studies suggested moderate irritation potential, indicating that care should be taken to avoid contact with the eyes [4].

Conclusion

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid stands out among vitamin C derivatives due to its enhanced stability and effective skin penetration. Its compatibility with formulations at a pH closer to that of the skin reduces the risk of irritation, making it a valuable ingredient in cosmetic products aimed at improving skin tone and combating signs of aging.

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References

1. Zerbinati, N., et al. (2021). The anti-ageing and whitening potential of a cosmetic serum containing 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid. Life, 11(5), 406.
   https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC8146548/

2. Liao, W. C., Huang, Y. T., Lu, L. P., & Huang, W. Y. (2018). Antioxidant ability and stability studies of 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid, a cosmetic tyrosinase inhibitor. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 69(4), 233–243.
   https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/30311899/

3. Iliopoulos, F., et al. (2019). 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid: Characterisation and investigation of single solvent systems for delivery to the skin. International Journal of Pharmaceutics: X, 1, 100025.
   https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6733298/

4. National Industrial Chemicals Notification and Assessment Scheme (NICNAS). (2016). Public report: L-Ascorbic acid, 3-O-ethyl- (INCI name: 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid). NICNAS Public Report LTD/1879.
   https://www.industrialchemicals.gov.au/sites/default/files/LTD1879%20Public%20Report%20PDF.pdf