Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate (ATIP) is an oil-soluble derivative of vitamin C, structurally modified by esterifying all four hydroxyl groups with isopalmitic acid. This makes ATIP exceptionally stable [1] and highly permeable to skin lipids, allowing effective delivery of active vitamin C in the skin [2,3].

Formulation Advantages & Skin Benefits

Evidence indicates several distinct advantages of ATIP:

• Good Stability: TIP has been described in the literature as a “very stable form” of vitamin C – it resists degradation even at high temperatures and in the presence of air, maintaining its activity over time [3].

• Photoprotection and Brightening: Topical ATIP reduced UVB-induced erythema and pigmentation in clinical and in vitro models. It also suppressed inflammatory cytokines after UV exposure [4]. In a human study, a 3% ATIP cream significantly decreased UV-induced pigmentation [4].

• Anti-Wrinkle Effect: In a clinical study, participants applied a 3% cream containing tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid (VC-IP) around the eyes twice daily for eight weeks. The results showed visible improvement in fine wrinkles, with many participants reporting moderate to marked reduction. These findings suggest that VC-IP may help reduce the appearance of wrinkles with regular use. [5].

Safety and Tolerability

• Low Irritation Potential: ATIP does not require low pH, making it less irritating than L-ascorbic acid. Human studies using 10% ATIP reported no adverse effects and was classified as a non-irritant and non-sensitizer [6].

• Regulatory and Toxicology Data: ATIP is non-mutagenic (Ames test), non-toxic at high oral doses in animals, and not flagged for sensitization or carcinogenicity. Regulatory agencies in the US and EU approve its unrestricted use in cosmetics [6].

Conclusion

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate combines strong stability, low irritation potential, and proven skin effects. Its oil solubility allows effective delivery of vitamin C without the need for acidic formulations.

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References

1. Narda, M., et al. (2020). Epidermal and dermal hallmarks of photoaging are prevented by treatment with night serum containing melatonin, bakuchiol, and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate: In vitro and ex vivo studies. Dermatology and Therapy, 10(1), 191–202.
   https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6994585/

2. Machado, N. C. F., et al (2016). Assessment of penetration of Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate into biological membranes by molecular dynamics. Computers in Biology and Medicine, 75, 151–159.
   https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S001048251630141X

3. Bastianini, M., Sisani, M., & Petracci, A. (2017). Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate inclusion into γ-cyclodextrin and mesoporous SBA-15: Preparation, characterization and in vitro release study. Cosmetics, 4(3), 21.
   https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/4/3/21

4. Ochiai, Y., et al. (2006). A new lipophilic pro-vitamin C, tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid (VC-IP), prevents UV-induced skin pigmentation through its anti-oxidative properties. Journal of Dermatological Science, 44(1), 37–44.
   https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/16935471/

5. Yokota, M., & Yahagi, S. (2021). Evaluation of the anti-wrinkle effect of a lipophilic pro-vitamin C derivative, tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 21(8), 3503–3514.
   https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/jocd.14604

6. Johnson, W., et al. (2022). Safety assessment of ethers and esters of ascorbic acid as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 41(Supplement 2), 57S–75S.
   https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/10.1177/10915818221093545