Squalane, a hydrogenated derivative of squalene, is a skincare ingredient known for its emollient properties, chemical stability, and compatibility with various skin types [1]. It is primarily derived from plant sources such as olives [1] and can also be produced biotechnologically from sugarcane through microbial fermentation [5]. Its precursor, squalene, is naturally present in human skin sebum, making squalane structurally similar to natural skin lipids [4].

Skincare Benefits

Moisturization and Skin Barrier Enhancement

Squalane functions effectively as a moisturizer due to its emollient characteristics. Its lightweight texture allows it to be suitable for oily and acne-prone skin types, improving skin elasticity and brightness with consistent use [2].

Enhanced Penetration of Active Ingredient

Squalane-based emulsions have been shown to increase the skin penetration of polyphenolic compounds, indicating its ability to enhance the delivery of certain active ingredients in skincare formulations [3].

Antioxidant Properties

Squalane has demonstrated antioxidant properties, which may contribute to protecting the skin from environmental stressors [4].

Safety Profile and Stability

Squalane has a documented safety profile, confirmed as non-irritating, non-sensitizing, and safe for topical cosmetic use [1]. Its saturated chemical structure provides resistance to oxidation, making squalane stable for inclusion in skincare products [1].

Squalane is preferred over squalene in skincare formulations due to its superior chemical stability. Squalene contains unsaturated double bonds, making it prone to oxidation, which can cause skin irritation and shorten product shelf life. In contrast, squalane's fully saturated chemical structure significantly reduces oxidation, resulting in greater stability, safety, and suitability for long-term cosmetic use [1].

Conclusion

Scientific evidence supports squalane as a skincare ingredient with moisturizing properties, the ability to enhance ingredient penetration, stability in formulations, and a reliable safety profile. Its antioxidant activity further underscores its potential usefulness in skincare formulations. Additionally, its structural similarity to naturally occurring skin sebum supports its compatibility with the skin.

References

1. Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2010). Final report on the safety assessment of squalane and squalene. International Journal of Toxicology, 29(3_suppl), 94S–115S.
   https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/pdf/10.3109/10915818209013146

2. Rastogi, R., & Gholap, A. (2023). Daily use of a bakuchiol and squalane-containing face serum impacts skin esthetics. CosmoDerma, 3, 182.
   https://cosmoderma.org/daily-use-of-a-bakuchiol-and-squalane-containing-face-serum-impacts-skin-esthetics/.

3. Oliveira, A. L. S., Valente, D., Moreira, H. R., Pintado, M., & Costa, P. (2022). Effect of squalane-based emulsion on polyphenols skin penetration: Ex vivo skin study. Colloids and Surfaces B: Biointerfaces, 218, 112779.
   https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/35994992

4. Kim, S.-K., & Karadeniz, F. (2012). Biological importance and applications of squalene and squalane. Advances in Food and Nutrition Research, 65, 223–233.
   https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/22361190/

5. Paramasivan, K., & Mutturi, S. (2022). Recent advances in the microbial production of squalene. World Journal of Microbiology and Biotechnology, 38(5), 91.
   https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/35426523/