Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is a lipid-soluble derivative of vitamin C designed to overcome the limitations of pure ascorbic acid, particularly its instability and limited skin penetration. THD Ascorbate offers enhanced stability and deeper skin absorption, making it a valuable ingredient in cosmetic formulations [1].

Formulation Advantages & Skin Benefits

Evidence indicates that THD Ascorbate provides several distinct advantages:

• Enhanced Skin Penetration: Due to its lipid-soluble nature, THD Ascorbate penetrates the stratum corneum more effectively than water-soluble forms of vitamin C. In vitro studies have demonstrated that a 30% THD Ascorbate formulation penetrated synthetic skin membranes approximately 110% more after six hours and 150% more after 24 hours compared to a 20% ascorbic acid formulation [2].

• Stability in Formulations: THD Ascorbate is more stable than ascorbic acid, resisting oxidation and maintaining efficacy over time. This stability allows for formulation at a skin-neutral pH, reducing the risk of irritation associated with low pH products.

• Collagen Synthesis: THD Ascorbate supports collagen production, which is essential for maintaining skin firmness and elasticity. Studies have shown that THD Ascorbate can increase collagen synthesis by up to 50% compared to ascorbic acid [3].

Safety and Tolerability

THD Ascorbate is generally well-tolerated and less irritating than ascorbic acid, especially in leave-on formulations. Its lipophilic nature allows for high skin absorption without the low pH required for ascorbic acid [2].

Conclusion

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is a stable, oil-soluble vitamin C derivative with promising antioxidant, brightening, and collagen-boosting effects. It is especially appealing for use in sensitive or lipid-rich formulations, although more independent clinical research is needed to fully validate its efficacy compared to ascorbic acid.

---

References

1. Min, M., Pérez Damonte, S. H., & Sivamani, R. K. (2024). Open-label topical application of tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate and acetyl zingerone containing serum improves the appearance of photoaging and uneven pigmentation. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 23(8), 1234–1242.
   https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/jocd.16315

2. Hooper, D. O., Tedaldi, A., Iglesia, D., Young, J., Kononov, T., & Zahr, R. (2023). Antioxidant skincare treatment for hyperpigmented and photodamaged skin: A multi-center, open-label, cross-seasonal case study. Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 16(11), 38–45.
   https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC10617894/

3. Fitzpatrick, R. E., & Rostan, E. F. (2002). Double-blind, half-face study comparing topical vitamin C and vehicle for rejuvenation of photodamage. Dermatologic Surgery, 28(3), 231–236.
   [https://skiningredients.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/Topical-Vitamin-C-for-Rejuvenation-of-Photodamage.pdf](https://skiningredients.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/Topical-Vitamin-C-for-Rejuvenation-of-Photodamage.pdf