Published on July 29, 2025

Water is the most common ingredient in skincare. In traditional emulsions like lotions or creams, it typically makes up 60–85% of the formula [1]. Water normally acts as a solvent, filler, and emulsifying medium in cosmetics, but it doesn't come without formulation challenges: it enables microbial growth, requiring preservatives [2], and can impose limits on how much of an active ingredient can be included due to low aqueous solubility [3] or their chemical instability in water [4].

Waterless skincare — also called anhydrous skincare — refers to products formulated without added water. These are typically concentrated balms, oils, powders, or solid bars. The trend began in Asia a few years ago with the aim to eliminate water from products to avoid diluting active ingredients and thus boost potency [5]. Proponents claim they are more potent, longer-lasting, and more sustainable. The reality is more nuanced.

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Formulation Implications

Advantages

Without water as a base, products must rely on alternative formats. Common examples include facial oils and oil-based serums (pure oil blends), balms and sticks (semi-solid mixtures of oils and waxes), and certain cleansers or masks sold as dry powders or tablets that are activated by water during use [5]. Formulating without water also means preservatives can be reduced or skipped entirely – water-based products need preservatives to prevent microbial growth [5], but anhydrous formulas can be self-preserving, eliminating the need for preservatives [5] - which some consumers view as a source of irritation and allergen exposure. This also contributes to a longer shelf life for many waterless products (dry formulations like powders often last significantly longer than their water-containing counterparts).

Limitations

The absence of water imposes some formulation challenges. Any active ingredient that normally requires water (for example, a water-soluble vitamin) must be reformulated or excluded [6] . Many common skincare actives (like hyaluronic acid or vitamins) are water-soluble, so they must be replaced with oil-soluble equivalents or novel delivery forms.

Certain product types are hard to formulate without water (you won’t find a true “waterless toner” or light gel moisturizer, since some textures simply require water). In general the range of available waterless products is growing but remains smaller than traditional offerings in most categories[5].

Creating stable solid formats (such as balms or bars) can be tricky – without water to form an emulsion, the texture and melting point have to be managed through waxes and thickeners [7].

A recent study noted that removing water from a product and compressing it into a bar form brings “a range of challenges and limitations,” requiring innovative formulation strategies [7].They also pay close attention to sensory properties – ensuring the product spreads easily and feels pleasant, not overly greasy or heavy, despite lacking the lightness that water provides. Also, without water, products may not give the same immediate cooling or hydrating sensation as a water-based lotion. Oils and balms mainly seal in moisture, but obviously, do not add water to the skin.

Sustainability Claims

A key motivation behind waterless beauty is the potential to reduce the industry’s water footprint. Water is not only the bulk of many cosmetic formulas, but also heavily used in cultivation of ingredients, in manufacturing processes (e.g. cleaning equipment, heating/cooling), and by consumers (rinsing off products) [8]. By removing water from formulations, companies seek to directly reduce the water consumption per product [5].

Waterless or concentrated products can also have secondary environmental benefits. Solid and concentrated formulas generally require less packaging and lighter shipping, cutting down on plastic waste and transport emissions [5]. Likewise, production can be more energy-efficient – if there’s no water phase to heat, the manufacturing process uses less energy and generates a smaller carbon footprint [5]. Additionally, using fewer (or no) synthetic preservatives means fewer chemicals entering wastewater, which potentially lowers the product’s ecological impact [9].

It’s important to note that “waterless” does not automatically equal “100% sustainable.” Even a product with zero water in its formula still indirectly uses water in its life cycle – for example, farming botanical ingredients and producing packaging consume water. Without accounting for indirect water use, there is a risk that waterless claims may oversimplify a product’s environmental profile and mislead consumers regarding its overall sustainability.

Consumer Trade-offs

For consumers, waterless skincare offers notable benefits but also some trade-offs.

Potential Advantages	Potential Limitations
Higher concentration of actives No water means actives aren’t diluted.	Some actives must be excluded Water-soluble ingredients (e.g. niacinamide, pure vitamin C, peptides) may not be usable without modification or encapsulation.
No added preservatives Lower risk of irritation from common preservative allergens.	Less instant hydration Oils and balms seal moisture but do not provide water-based hydration.
Longer shelf life Low water activity extends product stability.	Different texture/application May feel heavier or greasier than water-based products.
Less packaging & travel-friendly Solid formats reduce packaging waste and comply with liquid restrictions.	Limited product variety Certain formats (e.g. toners, light gels) are difficult to create without water.

In Summary

References

1. Brito, I., Ferreira, S. M., & Santos, L. (2023). On the path to sustainable cosmetics: Development of a Value-Added Formulation of Solid Shampoo Incorporating Mango Peel Extract. Cosmetics, 10(5), 140. https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/10/5/140

2. Halla, N. et al. (2018). Cosmetics preservation: A review on present strategies. Molecules, 23, 1571. https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules23071571

3. Marques, C. et al. (2024). Mechanistic insights into the multiple functions of niacinamide: Therapeutic implications and cosmeceutical applications in functional skincare products. Antioxidants, 13(4), 425. https://doi.org/10.3390/antiox13040425

4. Goswami, S. et al. (2025). In vitro, ex vivo, instrumental, and clinical assessment of a novel anti‑aging serum targeting oxidative stress. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 24(4), e16664. https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.16664

5. Lukić, M., & Krajišnik, D. (2024). Challenges and advances in waterless cosmetic product development: Raising awareness of water sustainability. Arhiv za farmaciju, 74, 735–757. (PDF) Challenges and advances in waterless cosmetic product development: Raising awareness of water sustainability

6. Presperse. (n.d.). Anhydrous formulations 101: A formulator’s guide to waterless skincare. Let’s Make Beauty. Anhydrous Formulations 101: A Formulator’s Guide to Waterless Skincare

7. Ogorzałek, M. et al. (2024). Research on waterless cosmetics in the form of scrub bars based on natural exfoliants. Applied Sciences, 14(23), 11329. Research on Waterless Cosmetics in the Form of Scrub Bars Based on Natural Exfoliants

8. Aguiar, J. B., et al. (2022). Water sustainability: A waterless life cycle for cosmetic products. Sustainable Production and Consumption. Water sustainability: A waterless life cycle for cosmetic products | Request PDF

9. Nowak‑Lange, M. et al. (2022). Cosmetic preservatives: Hazardous micropollutants in need of greater attention? International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 23(22), 14495. Cosmetic Preservatives: Hazardous Micropollutants in Need of Greater Attention?