r-Retinoate Intense Youth Activating Cream
Ingredients
Aqua (Water), Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Isododecane, Squalane, Cetearyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Cetearyl Olivate, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Polylactic Acid, Cyclodextrin, PPG-12/SMDI Copolymer, Sorbitan Olivate, Titanium Dioxide, Eclipta Prostrata Extract, Phenethyl Alcohol, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Cholesteryl Nonanoate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Rubus Chamaemorus (Cloudberry) Seed Oil, Canola Oil, Xanthan Gum, Pentylene Glycol, Retinal, Retinyl Retinoate, Citric Acid, Alumina, Isostearic Acid, Lecithin, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Stearic Acid, Ceramide AP, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Vanilla Planifolia (Vanilla) Fruit Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Linoleic Acid, Palmitic Acid, Ceramide NP, Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Seed Oil, Disodium EDTA, Phytosterols, Lonicera Japonica (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Lonicera Caprifolium (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract, Sodium Polyaspartate, Phytosphingosine, Parfum*, Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14, Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate, Ceramide EOP, Cholesterol, C12-16 Alcohols, Caprylyl Glycol, Carbomer, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Glyceryl Caprylate, Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Phenylpropanol, BHT, Limonene, Linalool, Citral.
This product is marketed as a serum-moisturizer hybrid — and I’ve used it exactly as that: a standalone nighttime moisturizer. Despite the brand's suggestion to "phase in" the product gradually due to the presence of retinal, I used it daily from the start and only experienced some mild sensitivity around the eye area after the fifth day. Beyond that, my skin tolerated it well.
This product is obscenely expensive, and yet, I'm already planning to repurchase. My skin has never looked better — more even-toned, noticeably smoother, and visibly brighter, even during a stretch of poor sleep. It’s the kind of result where you catch your reflection and think you're wearing makeup, even when you're not. I’m just waiting for a good sale before restocking.
The formula centers around two high-performance retinoids: retinyl retinoate and retinal (retinaldehyde):
-Retinyl retinoate is the brand's proprietary vitamin A molecule, designed to deliver results with less irritation than standard retinoids. There’s some data to support this — including a 12-week human trial (Kim et al., 2010). The brand also claims it’s 8x more powerful than retinol, citing in vitro research (Kim et al., 2008). However, that figure comes from lab experiments measuring collagen production in skin cells — not from clinical testing in humans. Still, it’s a highly promising ingredient.
-Retinal, meanwhile, is just one conversion step away from retinoic acid, making it faster-acting than retinol. The brand's “11x faster” claim is based on metabolic comparisons, not clinical trials, but its ability to boost cell turnover and improve texture is well-supported in dermatological literature.
The formula also includes a copper peptide, wrapped in marketing-heavy language like “drone-targeted delivery.” While that term means nothing scientifically, copper peptides themselves are respected for supporting collagen production and wound healing. The encapsulation may help with stability, but the brand hasn’t published data confirming enhanced delivery.
Supporting all of this is a strong base of hydrating and barrier-repairing ingredients. There’s hyaluronic acid for hydration and a ceramide complex (Ceramide NP, AP, EOP, cholesterol, fatty acids, and phytosphingosine) that mimics the skin’s natural lipid barrier. This is crucial, since retinoids are known to disrupt the barrier — and this formula clearly attempts to offset that. You’ll also find vitamin E (tocopheryl acetate) and a stable form of vitamin C (3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid) for antioxidant support.
Unfortunately, the formula also contains fragrance and common fragrance allergens like limonene, linalool, and citral — an unnecessary addition in what is otherwise a near-perfect formulation.
All in all, this isn’t just a thoughtfully designed product combining cutting-edge retinoids with a well-rounded supportive base — it’s one that delivers visible, impressive results fast. It’s a high-end product, and it performs like one. Medik8 clearly knows what it’s doing.